Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

been having a misfring problem so decided to rip out the plugs. ECU is not giving any codes so I'm pretty strongly thinking its them.

I've got NGK Iridum's BCPR6EIX-11 which I was told by the mechanic who put them in are gapped to .8mm. ( I need to get a feeler I know)

In the pics, The one from cyc 1 is black (fouled?), the rest look fine so should I replace them all with coppers and gap to .8mm or replace the 1st one only?

Any suggestions would be great, thanks!

Yepp, no.1 is a bit fouled, you should be able to buy just one and replace it cause the others look pretty good.

While the plugs are out, run a compression test if you can, see what the deal is with no. 1.

Also make sure they are gapped down to .8mm... Oh, and clean up the end of the plug where it connects onto the coil thingy (up top), maybe give it a light sand to give it a clean surface to transmit the electricity through.

J

Jay your a champion!! Thanks for helping me out again!

BTW ran through the ecu codes with the other lack of low down power and came up with code 13. Water temp sensor. Has now been replaced and car 'seems' to have picked up some mid range. Maybe the fault retarted timing or something? Dyno run soon will see.

Thanks again mate, I'll head out now and get a replacement and a feeler.

Cheers!

Well I ended up getting coppers (BCPR6ES) because A) no-where I went had them in stock without ordering them in next week and B) the gap on the current ones was 1.1m, and as you guys said gapping them isn't a good idea unless you want to break them.

I gapped them to .8mm and after taking my car for a hard 10min run on ~11psi (in like 7c ambient temp) I'm happy to say the misfiring has dissapeared when before it would have been chronic.

Thanks for the help!

maxim

what is you vehicle ??

because if it is a series 1 rb25det they have weak coils in them and sometime when they are trying to fire iridium spark plugs they dont work to well because of the lower grade coil.

if it is a series2 rb25det then you should have no problems running iridium plugs..

get some carby cleaner and give the coils a good clean with the cleaner , outside and up inside where the plug contacts the spring of the coil..

if you have something different then ignore the different series of coils info..

Hey Sato,

It's actually a 180sx with an series 1 rb25det conversion. I've got Splitfire coils which apparently are pretty good.

After I changed and gapped the new copper plugs seems to be running fine apart from some heitation on cold starts. Running 11psi on a cold (Canberra) night seems to be fine too.

I will clean the coils however as when I was looking at them seemed as if they had been in there for 100 years!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...