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Oil sandwich plate (one on the right)
Suits many cars, have 3/4 and M20x1.5 threads
$10

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RB25 S1 Throttle position sensor
$20

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push on drift button
$5

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Momo Jet 2 steering wheel w/ carbon inserts
includes horn and carbon horn holder
350mm
$100

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Offset rack spacer
14x1.5mm (R33/S14/S15/R34 etc)
$25

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7 row oil cooler
New
$75

T2eC16RHJIIE9qTYKDe1BQ45U2NmkQ60_3_zpsb5

300zx Z32 OEM wheels
16x7.5 +45
5x114.3
$50

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RB25 AN10 rocker cover fittings (these aren't push in, will need sealant/weld to keep them in) They might be RB20 (unsure if they have smaller holes)
$30

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Nissan Stagea S1 RS4 grille includes Stagea double unicorn badge
$50

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R33/r34/c34 Adjustable Upper Camber Arms
plenty of camber adjustment, few scuffs but near new.
$190

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Tein springs

Specs:

70mm ID 6kg spring rate
2x 225mm long
2x 250mm long

$60 pair $100 set

Located in Liverpool region, will ship at buyers expence.

Adam.

IMG_1230_zps9c66d184.jpg

RB25 S1 Throttle position sensor
$10

IMG_1239_zps107a0208.jpg

Offset rack spacer
14x1.5mm (R33/S14/S15/R34 etc)
$15

IMG_1242_zps528389a6.jpg

7 row oil cooler
New
$50

gallery_1619_111_194984.jpg

RB25 AN10 rocker cover fittings (these aren't push in, will need sealant/weld to keep them in) They might be RB20 (unsure if they have smaller holes)
$20

Stagea-WGNC34.jpg

Nissan Stagea S1 RS4 grille includes Stagea double unicorn badge
$50

teinsprings_zpsb4d7ff34.jpg

Tein springs

Specs:

70mm ID 6kg spring rate
2x 225mm long
2x 250mm long

$50 pair $80 set

PRICES DROPPED!

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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