Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im redoing some bodge wiring someone has done on my Rb20 s13, and discovered that 1 of the 3 02 sensors wires is not hooked up, it goes to the RB20's dash plug ( brown wire ) I have looked at alot of wiring guides for this conversion, but not one thing is mentioned about hooking up this wire, I think it goes to 12v ignition, can anyone confirm?

also, that F&*king silver rectangle box resistor looking thing, can't get a simple answer from any site as to what it actually does, injector resistor? both of its wires lead to a dash plug on the rb's loom, but still no guide says anything about wiring it up

same goes for the lower idle control valve, not wired up either

thanks for any help in advance, Rich

Edited by VRdrift

The aux air valve under the plenum is electrically heated. The wiring is just that, to power the heater. The valve is open when cold. Closes up as it warms up. It should be wired up per the RB20 wiring diagram.

The RB20 wiring diagram is freely available in the R32 GTR service manual that is all over the internet. It shows you all that you need to know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
    • With ordering the belt, you're doing water pump and the idler and tensioner at the same time too yes?
    • This is just a dumb way of keeping the wastegate closed to make more boost. Undo it and either follow the factory setup or redo it properly. Manual boost controllers just use a spring preload to determine when to close in response to boost pressure so it no longer vents to atmosphere.
    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
×
×
  • Create New...