Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Hicas Delete Or Already Deleted Who Knows Help Needed

Peanut92
 Share

Recommended Posts

Peanut92 Collaborator

Peanut92

Posted
Posted

hey guys sorry if this is in the wrong section but i assumed handling is close enough to steering

my dilemma is 1. i cant find a straight anwser on my actual hicas question

and 2. i need re assurance

now i hear everyone deletes hicas pretty quickly

bought my first 32 and noticed the hicas light on

after hearing things about the car like its setup for track and what not i would assume it was deleted

but i checked the power steer level and it was very low. i havent topped it up just incase he did a delete and ran low oil

i dont know

but yeah didnt think to much of it

my questions lie here

what is better a hicas lock bar (off ebay or anywhere someone will recommend a good one)

or a cusco or driftworks eliminator? with the seperate rods

will there be any play with either?

when i jack my car up there is a little play

and i assume that the hicas is still there after topping up my fluids i noticed the light gone straight away i did see the hicas computer in the boot one day im pretty sure all wires intacts

next question

how do i know if the hicas is actually working ? and was it working when the fluids were low as the car hasnt changed

i will say it steers pretty tight but maybe thats just the car. first 32 ive driven. ive tried doing the diagnostic but it didnt make to much sence i did it in my yard.

i started it turned my wheel 5 times left right left right left

pressed the brake 5 times moved forward slowly about 5 - 10 metres

no effect (remember light was on from low fluid)

have i missed something?

tried driving along looking in the mirror thru roundabouts cant really tell

but i did do some heave steering thru a mountain pass last weekend and the steering felt funny afterwards like mt centre point was constantly changing i would have the wheel in a straight line (yellow marker at top) and the car would start to veer and steering would lighten up one way then stop and ide be about 20-40 degrees off where i was

is this hicas playing up? or just wheel alignment

any help is appreciated

main question is are the lock bars as sturdy as the eliminator kit with proper seperate arms

and the other main question

if i buy the cusco if its better and its adjustable is it to hard to adjust?

$70 seems alot cheaper

then $300-400 im just wondering is it even worth the cash.

(drift is the cars intended purpose with me. weekend cruiser/drifter)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

This is a big set of questions, all of which have been answered before. However....

I will try to answer all of it, not necessarily in the order that you have asked.

First point, you will not see the rear wheels move by looking in the mirror, especially around roundabouts. HICAS only moves the rears through a very small angle. If you have time to look in the mirror then you aren't going fast enough.....and of course you won't see it anyway. HICAS also does not counter steer the rear wheels in lowe speed tight bends. That is purely for crappy 4WS systems on FWD cars like Mazda 626s and the like. They did that ebcause manufacturers had a hard time getting small enough turning circles out of FWD shitboxen and looked to 4WS to claw some back. HICAS is only there to do one thing - it detects when you are making a direction change at reasonably high speeds and applies a small amount of co-steer angle in the rear wheels in order to generate some slip angle at the rear earlier than it would happen if it had to wait for the fronts to start to change direction and turn the whole car. It makes the chassis more reactive to steering inputs. Makes the steering feel sharper - to normal grunts. If you are driving the thing over about 7 tenths you will usually get frustrated by the HICAS system sawing away at the rear wheels in the middle of a corner. It does not inspire confidence - you would much rather the only thing controlling the direction of the car to be you - not some halfwit computer designed to half the job only.

The HICAS light was probably on because the fluid was low.

You will not be able to get the HICAS system to go into diagnostics if you have an aftermarket steering wheel on it that does not have a HICAS compatible boss. The boss needs to be able to drive the steering angle sensor. If it can't then HICAS has no idea about the direction of the wheel. This also means that it cannot function properly while driving, and one of the symptoms of that is for the car to suddenly crank on some rear steering angle when you're driving over 80kays, needing you to hold the steering wheel to one side in order to keep going straight.

Any HICAS lock bar that leaves the original tie rod ends in place will leave all the play that was there in place. These are almost all completely stuffed, so they all need to be replaced - either with new ones or via a complete delete.

Any HICAS lock bar or any HICAS delete kit is not street legal withotu engineering. It is considered modification of a steering system and is therefore defectable. If you do it, be warned. Paint it all black.

Delete kits are a much better idea than lock bars.

Removing all the hydraulic gear is desirable. Do it if you can. It has been described on here before.

Peanut92 Collaborator

Peanut92

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thankyou for your anwser it pretty muchs covers all areas of my questions

And yes the light was a result of low fluid. I topped it up. Then again the light came on. Topped it up a little more the lights out has been out most of the night

Now here's where my problem gets hairy

I was out tonight (and am still out) I won't sugar coat it.

I went to lay some donuts now the steering was all funny and it wasn't as it normally is (no stress helis)

It was trying to fight me

So I did the smart thing and left as I was driving it the car started crab walking again really bad. We were basically on a 45 degree angle it felt like whole we were driving straight along the road. After I started braking it straightened up now it was doing this but not at 80 kms more like 60-70. And anything around these speeds

For instance one time I turned a corner there arse end would move left to right

Could this be faulty hicas?

Peanut92 Collaborator

Peanut92

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also the hicas light has come on again

And the handbrake light comes on sometimes at random times for short periods some longer then others

Does this indicate anything other then the handbreak being up

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Yes, this is a HICAS fault. Already told you that.

Pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the back of the HICAS computer. HICAS will go dead, but power steering will still work. No more light, no more crab walk. Just a lot of unnecessary crap along for the ride.

  • 2 weeks later...
sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted

I have an aftermarket steering wheel but dont have any hicas light nor can i tell if the hicas is working or not.

I have had one back wheel revert to a strange toe setting after a wheel alignment though. and there is a certain sloppiness and jerkiness to the rear wheels.

I wonder if the bulb has been pulled from my dash by a previous owner.

Peanut92 Collaborator

Peanut92

Posted
  • Author
Posted

IDE say the bulb is pulled. Considering I have this similar problem and I get the light. It comes on after a while and there's plenty of fluid

Easier way to check turn your ignition till the reds come on and see if lights up its on your left side under your speedo near the handbrake one

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nope nothing lights up there on reds. Mine is a one of the frist R33s produced of any kind though, a 1993 model, but it still must have had a bulb for Hicas, correct?

Looking under the car the Hicas guts are definitely there.

Edited by sonicz
  • 6 months later...
0zhiph0p Community Regular

0zhiph0p

Posted
Posted

I guess I can add onto here rather than new post, i've noticed when turning 90degree corners and giving a bit of stick it feels like the back end slides out but no tyre screech or anything unless I keep the boot in could that be hicas aswell? It's an r32 gtr

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted

I guess I can add onto here rather than new post, i've noticed when turning 90degree corners and giving a bit of stick it feels like the back end slides out but no tyre screech or anything unless I keep the boot in could that be hicas aswell? It's an r32 gtr

Exactly what GTSboy said. On top of worn bushes tie rods etc, there is just more components back there than a regular 2ws car so there's more things to "flex" under load.

I have noticed almost all R33s have this loose feeling at the rear end, but personally I kind of like it. Instead of the car breaking traction as you would expect, you have a soft buffer zone where wheels turn a bit in the direction they are trying to break traction so you get a gentle shimmy than a whoosh spin out. I think its preferable on a road car.

  • 3 weeks later...
Philr32 Proficient

Philr32

Posted
Posted

Sounds like diff bushes, also check your steering rack (front and HICAS) sounds like it may be leaking hence the weird steering feel and your consumption of steering fluid. Turn the steering side to side on one spot and check underneath for leaks, also check the boots for leaking fluid. Leaking fluid could affect HICAS as they are off the same system I think?

Check out GKTech.com.au there stuff is great, they have all the shit you need (lock bar or complete delete) and they have great prices. Also they're shut us black so more stealth lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...