Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, I was trying to fix an oil leak lastnight, I changed my turbo return hose for some nice speed flow fittings and a braided hose, unfortunately I still didn't get it....haha

But to the main problem, I took the car for a quick lap around the block to see if I fixed my oil leak and gave it a boot full as it only leaks at high rpm or when it's on boost, and after I backed off and put in the clutch to roll back up out the front the car suddenly was stuck revving at 4000rpm, I quickly popped the bonnet and checked it wasn't the throttle stuck open for some reason but it wasn't it, could the tps be stuck in a position telling the computer it's still open?

Car has a single throttle body, running a motec computer, not running a afm

It's never done this before and I didn't fiddle or disconnect anything while changing the oil return

Edited by I am batman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422683-rb26-really-high-idle/
Share on other sites

Does it have idle air control valve like stock ones? If it wasn't single throttle body it would be the seals only other possibility is u blew a intake manifold gasket? Get some brake cleaner and spray around the inlet manifold while running and see if idle changes.

I don't think it has one anymore, I'll try start it now to see if its had a change of heart today and pull the plug on the tps see if it changes

I killed the power from the battery so hopefully its reset the computer if the motec had a fit

If not ill try find some brake cleaner and give it a spray

Haha was on a roll today, found the leak aswell

Must of been a return for the second turbo from factory, how it was plugged up was absolutely s*@t house and was spraying out, got it all fixed now tho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...