Jump to content
SAU Community

WTB: APEXI POWER FC+H/C & APEXI BOOST KIT FOR R33 GTR

GT1

By GT1,
in Wanted to Buy

 Share

Recommended Posts

GT1 Collaborator

GT1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Power FC & HC + boost controller for $1150 delivered

Hi,

Im not after the apexi boost controller anymore as a lot of people have advised me that they dont hold boost to well on GTR's. I can offer $800 C.O.D for the PFC & HC.

Thanks.

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Im not after the apexi boost controller anymore as a lot of people have advised me that they dont hold boost to well on GTR's. I can offer $800 C.O.D for the PFC & HC.

Thanks.

another silly unsubstanciated claim on the forum

we run an apexi avc-r on staceys race car.we are currently running 25psi and it uses exactly the same solinoid as the power fc kit does.graphed the boost levels on croydons dyno and dont think i have seen a flatter boost line(dead straight on max boost).with her new turbo upgrade we are confident of upping the ante to 30psi.hope this has helped with your decision.

GT1 Collaborator

GT1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
another silly unsubstanciated claim on the forum

we run an apexi avc-r on staceys race car.we are currently running 25psi and it uses exactly the same solinoid as the power fc kit does.graphed the boost levels on croydons dyno and dont think i have seen a flatter boost line(dead straight on max boost).with her new turbo upgrade we are confident of upping the ante to 30psi.hope this has helped with your decision.

Hi,

Thanks for your input. I was advised that its not to do with how much boost your running but to do with the springs in the actuator. With the factory actuators they start to open around 10-11psi so the boost controller struggles to hold more boost at stable levels such as 15-16psi. Correct me if i am wrong. I do appreciate other peoples opinions.

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
Hi,

Thanks for your input. I was advised that its not to do with how much boost your running but to do with the springs in the actuator. With the factory actuators they start to open around 10-11psi so the boost controller struggles to hold more boost at stable levels such as 15-16psi. Correct me if i am wrong. I do appreciate other peoples opinions.

yeah fair point we have hks actuators on that car.......but.last weekend we set an avc-r up on one of our other gtrs running stock turbo/actuators and works great at holding 1.1 bar and car ramps up to max quite quickly.the comment in this thread advised that it was the apexi that was at fault and this is not the case,as you have just pointed out.cheers and good luck with your setup.

GT1 Collaborator

GT1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I can see where your coming from. If i can find an apexi b/c with the pfc and h/c as a whole kit i guess i will still buy it, but if i come across a dual solenoid b/c before hand i'll get that. Thanks again for the info.

Guest two.06l

Guest two.06l

Posted
Posted
I can see where your coming from. If i can find an apexi b/c with the pfc and h/c as a whole kit i guess i will still buy it, but if i come across a dual solenoid b/c before hand i'll get that. Thanks again for the info.

no worries,any probs with the setup pm me as am glad to help out. paul (staceys pit bitch)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...