Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone

hope someone can help

my r33 passenger side door will not open with keys from inside or outside

seems the locking mechanism is stuff

can remove the door panel as i cannot open the door.

no modifications or alarm just the stock central locking which makes a whirring sound when i use it on drivers side

any advice thank you

how to remove the rear panel so i can drill out the door bolt thingy... last hope

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424113-r33-passenger-door-will-not-unlock/
Share on other sites

Have you tried your spare key, and keep inserting it in and out whilst applying anti clockwise force, it should eventually let you get in. from wear and tear the keys wear out.

If not, take off the plastic around the inside door handle, it just pops off, and try pull the cables from there.

i am using the spare key ..doesnt seem to help ..it doesnt seem to engage..

i will keep on trying

i cant remove the trim, as i cannot open the door at all

however i will try to remove it as i hv heard it can be done...maybe damaging it a bit

i hv tried rolling down the windows and fishing with a coat hanger..

managed to open the drivers side door quite easily

but not the passenger door..

i hv heard this is quite common

alas ..love my skyline

thks for your reply

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...