Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all.

Need a little help with my rb20 powered calais.

the previous owner could not get it running right after countless attempts. I have had the car for only a couple of days and have had no success either.
I have checked all the spark plugs, coils, loom and not yet found anything that could help the problem.

The problem is. Difficult to get the car to idle when warm. Idles fine when cold, sometimes it hovers around maybe 200 rpm won initial start but it comes to life and sits at a higher decent idle after about 10 seconds. If I pump the gas once or twice it gets to idle straight away, just needs a little help to pick it up.

as the tacho is busted, i can only give approximate revs. At around 3500 rpm if i try and put my foot down, it will spit and fart and cough all they way through the gear. I can not see or hear any air leaks. The only mods I can see are big FMIC , decent exhaust manifold, and a T04e turbo(lol).

It just does not want to rev freely.

What I am asking. Is if anybody in the Gold Coast area, would be willing to help me out with these problems. I have never owned an RB, yet have had many powerful cars, so I am not an idiot, just new to the RB. If someone could come around and point out specific problem areas on the RB, and give me a hand to try and find this problem, I would be greatly appreciative.

I would take it to a shop, But I am physically disabled and in no way can afford a shop to look it over.

I am happy to supply the beers to whomever comes around to help me out.

Im not a rapist, murderer, theif or low life. I have no intention of dicking anyone around. I simply want some help on my car so that I can have a car again.

Kind Regards,
Clucky-7

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425812-help-with-rb20det-on-the-gold-coast/
Share on other sites

I have recently changed the afm that was on the car to another one. both standard afm's. it seemed to have somewhat eased the running of the engine, however still, as soon as i see boost, or put my foot down, it does not run right. There is still something wrong. I am only running 5 psi of boost, so i know it is not overboosting.

However, that brings up another thing i want to ask. Where are most people getting a reference signalfor a boost gauge from? Currently I am running one from the intake manifold. There are two on there, I am running the boost gauge off of the highest one. the one underneath has 5 cm's of pipe and is blocked off with a screw. The nipple my gauge is connected to, has a t-piece on it, one line going straight to the boost gauge, and the other side of the boost tee is blocked off with a screw aswell.

Can somebody please shed some light on where these two nipples are meant to be connected to, or what they are meant to have connected to them. Aswell as informing me of where you are getting your reference signal on your RB20DET.

Thank you in advance.

Kind Regards,

Poeticjustice88

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...