Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all im new here my names jake im looking for advice on a weekender im thinking of buying, im from sydney and the car im looking at buying is from vic. Here is the ad

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-2040323/?Cr=2

im just worried ill get defected on the way back to syd for all the mods, any opinions would be great its my first gtr as I can finally afford it.

any opinions good or bad will be appreciated thanjs all

Awesome looking car! Your first concern should be, CAN you get it through a blue slip as is? If not, how much will you have to change and spend to get it through?

When making a purchase like this make sure you have cash spare for these sort of issues!

The car looks really well built BUT NSW rules of late have been so strict and are being enforced, so if there are any potential defects on the car in NSW then work out what to do about it before it happens...

I would say the car may be known by the SAU VIC guys, try ask them?

But REVS check, EPA check and speak to a Blue Slip station!

Looks like it needs more boost

Why do you say that? Doesnt seem to be helping the OP on his purchase decision?

Yeah thats exactly wat I was worried about. Any ideas on how I could check if it would pass a blue slip without having the car in nsw? Another problem is its only registered untill the 10th of this month so if I wana drive it back I need to move fast and get these checks done. Im really hoping I can buy this car and yeah I got spare money after purchase as I was kind of expecting these probs with interstate car deals. U guys think its worth the risk?

Yeah thats exactly wat I was worried about. Any ideas on how I could check if it would pass a blue slip without having the car in nsw? Another problem is its only registered untill the 10th of this month so if I wana drive it back I need to move fast and get these checks done. Im really hoping I can buy this car and yeah I got spare money after purchase as I was kind of expecting these probs with interstate car deals. U guys think its worth the risk?

Blue slip requires an inspection - ie you need the car in NSW. You will need to read up on the rules as to what will comply and what won't - looking at the engine bay and the list of mods - there are alot of things that will have to be reverted back to stock to pass.

Yeah the boost does seem to be running quiet high??? 21psi at the street tune seened like akot to me but im no exoert.

for the power levels they would be 2860-5 turbos - 21psi is quite normal for them.

Blue slip requires an inspection - ie you need the car in NSW. You will need to read up on the rules as to what will comply and what won't - looking at the engine bay and the list of mods - there are alot of things that will have to be reverted back to stock to pass.

Oh bummer4 that was my main concern a few things is fine but alot of things is not so good Im thinking its a bit too risky for my liking such a shame cause im in love with this car

there doesn't seem too much under the hood that would make an issue... Remove the catch can, replace the airbox, unbolt all the shiny accessories and the coil pack cover. the rest is just bling

Edited by polishstorm

Im really stumped on wat to do atm, im contemplating just buying it lol as long as its not gonna cost me over 5k including rego n on road costs ill be happy. another concern is the seats can they defect me on those as well?

there doesn't seem too much under the hood that would make an issue... Remove the catch can, replace the airbox, unbolt all the shiny accessories and the coil pack cover. the rest is just bling

plus the ecu, boost controller, exhaust etc.

Most of the parts you need, you should be able to borrow off people - It's just the labour time that will be costy - unless you can do it yourself.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Im really stumped on wat to do atm, im contemplating just buying it lol as long as its not gonna cost me over 5k including rego n on road costs ill be happy. another concern is the seats can they defect me on those as well?

Seats will be fine

I was just exaggerating as this thing is a machine

easiest thing to do is source a good blueslipper that doesnt have to look at the car ;)

yeah thats the obvious option lol...but if you need to ask, you generally dont know someone that will do that for you

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Well guys I took the risks and decided to buy. Its well worth the risk and travel as soon as I saw it, its by far the cleanest gtr r33 I seen the attention to detail is amazing. Hopeing to get it registered early this week.

Good luck with it mate. I hope you find a good blue slip place to take it to.

If you take it to a place and they say they need you to spend thousands of dollars in order to get it back to close to stock for the blue slip get them to make a list of exactly what needs to be changed and post back here. Don't let them start working on it.

Edited by *LOACH*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
×
×
  • Create New...