Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, as you all might notice, im new around here and was just wondering if someone can point me in the right direction.

I'm interested in a RB30 Engine Block, complete with crank, rods, pistons, waterpump, oil pump etc.

Can someone point me to a forum or someone I can buy it from or enquire further about it?

Thanks

Edit:

Lol, just saw the "rank" thing saying in RB20E and it just so happens that I am presently driving a RB20E powered cefiro A31!

Edited by Trini.Madman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426929-need-some-directions/
Share on other sites

Ok im not from Australia. Or from Adelaide SA... Not even sure where that is.

However, I am from Trinidad, West Indies.

Now that's the other side of the world, but the reason I came onto this site is because I cant find it anywhere else on this side of the planet.

What will the prices of a block be? On average! If I was to buy it in Australia? Id need to work out shipping after, But first id need to see if its worth it or if I should just stick to a RB25 build.

The RB30 block are only available in AU so you would have to import it.

Thats what I had to do for mine.

You can get them from site like this: http://www.rbthirty.com/

Or, you probably are fimilar with your local forum : http://www.trinituner.com/v3/

There are a few guys that do importing of parts that might be able to help you out.

I was on there looking for A31 parts so I have talk to the importers from there, they are willing also there is a whole section on RB30 conversions here I suggest you look around there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/184-rb30-conversions/

Good luck but search around there is alot of info here too: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=RB30+conversion

The first link says there are currently no rb30 for sale...

Also, for to get in contact with someone locally to bring it down will be a REAL BIG TASK.

The minute you ask them personally to do something ur paying big bucks for it! BIG BIG BUCKS. So it would come out cheaper for me to probably buy it from someone. And they put it in a crate or something and ship it down for me...

We brought a few in at the same time with a bunch of other parts so selling those basically paid for my block and then some, if you can swing it I suggest you do the same.

Again good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...