Jump to content
SAU Community

Stupid Problem Ruining My Fun

missile_c33
 Share

Recommended Posts

missile_c33 Apprentice

missile_c33

Posted
Posted

hi guys lookin for some help as im stumped

so the problem is I have built myself a simple little drift missile but the response is *weird*?
say I whip a couple of nuts then go to snake off as soon is I blip the gas off then hard back on it dies as if a total cut then comes back on perfect again but by then traction is gained and its all over. same thing winding out a gear and changing up, rev all the way (no tach yet) smash next gear.... biiiig dead spot , foot still firmly planted, one or two tiny ignitions then back on song no missing broad minded persontering nothing, ruining my skids,

so guess I shood drop a mod list

c33 laurel originally rd28 diesel manuel
c34 rb25de wired in like factory, knock sensors, acc valve valve everything works , even hooked up the start signal wire
stainless 3-1 extractors into 3" exhaust with 1 hi flow muffler
pod filter with cold air box, doesnt have a feed into it , is just blocked off from engine bay and taking air from behind the light etc
diesel flywheel p plate, clutch and gear box
fuel is a 30l fuel cell with surge tank, hi vol pump into tank and a vl rb30 efi pump to motor, still running factory flushed diesel hard lines, (small return) and using the fatory fuel pressure reg thing on the return, (I assume that's what it is)
plugs are iridims and gaped to.8

any help would be great, this makes it no fun to drive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426992-stupid-problem-ruining-my-fun/
Share on other sites
XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Not sure mate but a tune should be able to work it out. My old carby ap5 had the same problem and used to foul the plugs all the time until I sorted the over fueling with a fuel reg and carby jets. It was a petrol engine though. Diesels might be more sensitive to over fueling I think.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Is the gearbox/neutral switch hooked up so it knows when it's in gear? I'm assuming by having the start switch hooked up you are meaning the neutral switch is earthed so it thinks it's in neutral all the time, which means it will be using a different map in the ecu than if it thought it was in gear. That may be contributing to the issue.

missile_c33 Apprentice

missile_c33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

does sound like a good plan, however, everything in this car is stripped, the whole auto loom is now gone ( body is factory manuel) would it be a pinout from the ecu?

as for the start start switch as far as I am aware I had to put 12v to it when the motor is winding over starting and it tells the ecu to give it a little more gas?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...