Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Over the next couple of months, I will be replacing various parts on my V35. Therefore, the stock counterparts will be up for grabs as listed below.

- Front bumper with aftermarket lip. Some scratches evident.

- Stock side skirts. Some scratches evident

- Non-brembo calipers + rotors + lines

- ?Brembo rotors

Open to offers on all the above

Body parts are painted black

Items located in Melbourne

Patience is requested from future buyers as I will be offloading these items as their after market counterparts arrive in the country.

Other items for sale;

1)

946921_10200743058691572_1611716823_n.jp

Brand: SSR
Model: MS1
Tyres: 225/35/19f 235/35/19r
Pair / Set: set
PCD: 5x114.3
Diameter / Width / Offset: 19x9.5 +18f 19x10 +24r
Condition: Small gutter rash on the right rear wheel, 1x wheel cap slightly damaged, other small imperfections due to daily use. No hairline cracks.
Location: Melbourne
Willing to Ship: At buyers expense
Price: $3000
Willing to Swap: No, but keen to see what you got. Negative offsets, only 19x10-11 inch wide!

2) JL 13W7 in ported box (not carpetted) and JL 1000/1v2 amplifer for sale!

Can throw in all cabling required. Items are not even 4 months old. Selling it as these were in my old car, and they will not obviously fit in the V35.

$1400 for both plus wiring plus FREE capcitor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427248-vic-fs-various-v35-coupe-parts/
Share on other sites

Bumpppp

Front non brembo rotors. Plenty of meat left. Have not even been machined once! $140 for both

1013699_10200890590899785_1753052125_n.j

Non brembo rear rotors. Same as above. $100 for both

993762_10200890591659804_621983186_n.jpg

Brembo slotted rotors. Little bit of life left in them (Maybe one pad life left depending on which pad you use) $100

1017370_10200890590699780_742746163_n.jp

Stock non brembo calipers with pads $200

1012611_10200890592139816_1886984897_n.j

Might be interested in the non-brembo rear rotors. Any chance you can do me a favour and measure the distance from the outer edge of the rotor to the outer edge of the hub? I found out one of my rear rotors is too small the other day and just want to check what size these are before committing to buying. The one of mine that is too small is 55mm, the other is 60mm.

basically this.

post-84647-0-08172800-1372108896_thumb.jpg

I discovered the other day that one of my rear rotors is smaller than the other and the brake pad is overhanging the edge of the disk.

I didn't have time to remove the whole rotor to confirm the overall diameter, but was able to measure the figure shown in the pic, the small rotor had a measurement of 55mm, the rotor on the other side which looked correct was 60mm.

I've got the original rear rotors of my coupe in the shed, and just measured them at 55mm (actually closer to 54mm). Both have a small un-worn (is that even a word) strip around the outer rim, so the pads definitely weren't overhanging the rotor. Just to clarify, I have a 2003 premium coupe, and these were the standard (non-brembo) brakes. Were there different calipers on different years?

I'm not sure, but I guess they must be, mine is an 05 350GT sedan, the rotor on the left side is quite close to 60mm and the is only a small strip around the edge that is unworn, like yours. But the pads on the right rotor overhang by about 3-4mm, which suggests the right rotor has been replaced with one for a different year/spec, but I can't find anything to suggest there are any differences, other than the brembos.

The Callipers and the pads on both sides look identical, so I am assuming it is just this rotor that is wrong and not everything except this rotor??

Thanks for checking though!

If it helps - my rotors are 292mm diameter & 16mm thick. The calipers have "15" & "4306" cast next to the bleed nipple, and "27A" cast above where the pads sit. I've got a full set of F&R rotors & calipers in the shed, so if you want any measurements or pics let me know.

Thanks for your help.. I actually created a new thread about this issue on the weekend.. I might post some further info in there if you are interested, instead of clogging up this 'for sale' thread.

Edited by sonicii

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...