Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Over the next couple of months, I will be replacing various parts on my V35. Therefore, the stock counterparts will be up for grabs as listed below.

- Front bumper with aftermarket lip. Some scratches evident.

- Stock side skirts. Some scratches evident

- Non-brembo calipers + rotors + lines

- ?Brembo rotors

Open to offers on all the above

Body parts are painted black

Items located in Melbourne

Patience is requested from future buyers as I will be offloading these items as their after market counterparts arrive in the country.

Other items for sale;

1)

946921_10200743058691572_1611716823_n.jp

Brand: SSR
Model: MS1
Tyres: 225/35/19f 235/35/19r
Pair / Set: set
PCD: 5x114.3
Diameter / Width / Offset: 19x9.5 +18f 19x10 +24r
Condition: Small gutter rash on the right rear wheel, 1x wheel cap slightly damaged, other small imperfections due to daily use. No hairline cracks.
Location: Melbourne
Willing to Ship: At buyers expense
Price: $3000
Willing to Swap: No, but keen to see what you got. Negative offsets, only 19x10-11 inch wide!

2) JL 13W7 in ported box (not carpetted) and JL 1000/1v2 amplifer for sale!

Can throw in all cabling required. Items are not even 4 months old. Selling it as these were in my old car, and they will not obviously fit in the V35.

$1400 for both plus wiring plus FREE capcitor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427248-vic-fs-various-v35-coupe-parts/
Share on other sites

Bumpppp

Front non brembo rotors. Plenty of meat left. Have not even been machined once! $140 for both

1013699_10200890590899785_1753052125_n.j

Non brembo rear rotors. Same as above. $100 for both

993762_10200890591659804_621983186_n.jpg

Brembo slotted rotors. Little bit of life left in them (Maybe one pad life left depending on which pad you use) $100

1017370_10200890590699780_742746163_n.jp

Stock non brembo calipers with pads $200

1012611_10200890592139816_1886984897_n.j

Might be interested in the non-brembo rear rotors. Any chance you can do me a favour and measure the distance from the outer edge of the rotor to the outer edge of the hub? I found out one of my rear rotors is too small the other day and just want to check what size these are before committing to buying. The one of mine that is too small is 55mm, the other is 60mm.

basically this.

post-84647-0-08172800-1372108896_thumb.jpg

I discovered the other day that one of my rear rotors is smaller than the other and the brake pad is overhanging the edge of the disk.

I didn't have time to remove the whole rotor to confirm the overall diameter, but was able to measure the figure shown in the pic, the small rotor had a measurement of 55mm, the rotor on the other side which looked correct was 60mm.

I've got the original rear rotors of my coupe in the shed, and just measured them at 55mm (actually closer to 54mm). Both have a small un-worn (is that even a word) strip around the outer rim, so the pads definitely weren't overhanging the rotor. Just to clarify, I have a 2003 premium coupe, and these were the standard (non-brembo) brakes. Were there different calipers on different years?

I'm not sure, but I guess they must be, mine is an 05 350GT sedan, the rotor on the left side is quite close to 60mm and the is only a small strip around the edge that is unworn, like yours. But the pads on the right rotor overhang by about 3-4mm, which suggests the right rotor has been replaced with one for a different year/spec, but I can't find anything to suggest there are any differences, other than the brembos.

The Callipers and the pads on both sides look identical, so I am assuming it is just this rotor that is wrong and not everything except this rotor??

Thanks for checking though!

If it helps - my rotors are 292mm diameter & 16mm thick. The calipers have "15" & "4306" cast next to the bleed nipple, and "27A" cast above where the pads sit. I've got a full set of F&R rotors & calipers in the shed, so if you want any measurements or pics let me know.

Thanks for your help.. I actually created a new thread about this issue on the weekend.. I might post some further info in there if you are interested, instead of clogging up this 'for sale' thread.

Edited by sonicii

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...