Jump to content
SAU Community

Cold And Hot Idle


Recommended Posts

Hey everybody. I have a question concerning my idle

When cold, so first start in morning it idles at around 1100 for the first minute and slowly climbs to about 1800-2000 rpm to warm up the engine. When warm it drops down to the allocated 800 rpm.

My question is, is there any way to lower the high revs when cold to say 1400-1500 rpm and keep the 800 rpm when warm idle?

I ask because it takes about 10 mins of driving to get it to the warm idle. Sometimes I can make it to where ever I need to go before the idle drops down. But as I live on the Gold Coast, there are a lot of traffic lights in between my home and work, and I have noticed I am getting a lot of weird looks when sitting at the lights with my car idling close to 2 grand as it is rather loud. The last thing I want is to be sitting at the lights and have a police car rock up next to me while my car sounds like I am staging at a drag strip.

I just want to have cold idle at around 1200 rpm and keep my warm idle at 800 rpm. Is there any way to change the cold idle limit with out changing my entire idle limit?

RB20DET, not sure if silver or red top as I do not know how to tell. It has the ECCS manifold but both came it with that. Is there any other way to tell ?

Kind Regards,

Michael

Edited by poeticjustice88
Link to comment
Share on other sites

same problem with mine, just happened recently, dead cold start max jumps to 1.9

idle stuck at .9-1

there's definitely a problem here, some says it's vacuum leak, loose gaskets, air leak or aac

i'll be waiting for some answers too :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, make that 3..

Mine revs at about 1800 when cold.

And 700 flat when hot and holds that nicely.

Really loud at 1800 as well.. Think my exhaust is adding a bit to that

Also an RB20det

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take it to your tuner. Most good tuners will keep your car overnight after tuning and do the cold start (adjusting IF necessary)

Type of ECU can make a difference. After disconnecting the battery for any reason start it from cold and let it run for 10 to 15 so it can RE-learn.

Above is just my experience.

I'm not a Tuner so Jez and the boys will have better advice. .

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my personal experience with my SR20DET last time was the Idle valve thats dirty if the condition comes suddenly without adjustments to the ECU, else its the ECU doing its cold temp compensations that needs to be checked.

hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB20DET, not sure if silver or red top as I do not know how to tell. It has the ECCS manifold but both came it with that. Is there any other way to tell ?

One, the top of the engine has red rocker covers, on the other the top of the engine has silverish rocker covers. (Oh, and ECCS is found the silvertop, redtop has NICS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
    • I don't believe you.
    • All jokes aside, OP they're just called R32 oem rims as you said. The Nissan engineers back in the late 80's loosely copied the design from the Koya Driftek which was designed and produced about 18 years later.
×
×
  • Create New...