Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, recently i've noticed a squeaking and scraping, (sounds like metal on metal noise) coming from the right hand side, sounds like its from the rear. its very loud and is consistent with how fast i go. ie. if i speed up the noise will speed up, when I roll it in neutral, thats when i can hear it the loudest. just as i'm about to come to a stop it sounds really horrible, very squeaky, otherwise when i speed up you can only hear a tat tat tat sound.

any ideas? the car appears to be driving normal.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42809-weird-squeakingscraping-noise/
Share on other sites

just quickly jacked the car up before, didn't notice anything unusual. it gets dark so quickly these days! i think its time to take the car to the mechanics, it sounds so sick :)

recently i changed the rims, but i'm pretty sure that it isn't effecting anything. i mite change it back on the weekend just to be 100% sure.

thanks for the tips.

hi guys, recently i've noticed a squeaking and scraping, (sounds like metal on metal noise) coming from the right hand side, sounds like its from the rear.  its very loud and is consistent with how fast i go.  ie.  if i speed up the noise will speed up, when I roll it in neutral, thats when i can hear it the loudest.  just as i'm about to come to a stop it sounds really horrible, very squeaky, otherwise when i speed up you can only hear a tat tat tat sound.

any ideas?  the car appears to be driving normal.

thanks

I had exact same noise mate...i constantly drove with my head outside the window and it sounded like the noise was coming from rear right...

As i came to a slow stop the noise was really loud...when i accelerated it didnt seem to be that loud

I ended up taking it to mechanic and in the end they found out it was the tag on the exhaust had come lose near the resonator or inside the actual head..i.e the pop rivet had come off 1 side and it was the tag hitting...thus the metal on metal sound..

You could have the same problem :)

Well basically i thought it was something in my caliper or wheel somewhere seriously didnt have a clue..it was really really annoying sounded like a metal rattle snake!!! a loud one

I took it to my mechanic he told me to rev constantly so i kep revving the sound only seemed to occur around 4000 rpm + and when i decellerated it seemed to happen aswell

Decided to hoist the car up

He told me to keep revving he followed the noise down the resonator or head wasnt sure! ive got a kakimoto full exhaust...basically on pretty much all exhausts u have internal badging held on by pop rivets in my case 2 pop rivets held the badge to interanal wall musta been near the head or resonator? externally in that case

He basically got pliers and pulled the tag off...it was a simple tag causing the rattle.

They also said it could of been a hole in your resonator or heat shield. theirs your 2 other options :rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...