Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am trying to clean my 34 GTT engine by up some while installing a plazmaman,

There is a vacuum line going from intake manifold into steel tube across front of engine to the powersteering valve?/Sensor?

Would it be ok to move this from manifold to charge pipe and T off the power steering hose to the Apex Boost controller?

Or would this somehow have an ill effect on boost control?

Also is it normal for the second hose on the powersteering to be plugged?

Cheers

post-90047-0-38406000-1375719227_thumb.jpg

oops picture added,

Also thought of another Question,

Why do i Have a MAP sensor, Boost sensor and AFM?

Also how hard is it for a tuner to tune around IAC? so i could remove the iac from the new manifold and blank it off

... I don't often say this, but please consult with a professional before you do to much more to your car.

1. No... don't T off those lines, make sure they are connected as standard.

2. Looks like the sensor for a factory boost gauge

3. You don't have a MAP sensor that is reffrenced by the ecu. The MAP sensor is the boost sensor. AFM is reffrenced by the ecu.

4. Don't even think about it. You won't be able to correctly tune around idle controll. FFS there is a provision on the manifold to bolt it straight on???

J.

Thankyou for the reply

1) Could you tell me why running a line from intake pipe to boost controller that also T's onto power steering would affect boost control?

3) Ok, i still dont really understand that, while setting up for the plazmaman i realized i have Map sensor and Boost sensor running to the manifold. As well as the 3rd that you say is likely for boost gauge

4) True there is a provision for it, but i will be getting a tune after the install anyway so if i could remove it and tidy the engine bay with no ill effects why wouldnt i?

1) Never, ever, take a signal for boost control from anything other than a dedicated tapping port with nothing else connected to it. This ensures that should you have a failure of any of the other hoses and equipment that you (shouldn't) have connected to the same tapping point, that you don't lose boost control.

3) The R34 has a MAP sensor for the guage, same as all preceding (turbo) Skylines. The R34 also has a MAP sensor that is connected to the ECU. But it is not used to control the fuelling. It is effectively just a boost sensor, and effectively just used for overboost protection. The load signal for the engine is still taken from the AFM.

4) Ill effects include losing control of idle speed. Not having it is daft. "Tidyness" at the expense of utility is daft.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...