Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys..

Planning on changing my gearbox oil on my R33 and i'm having troubles figuring out where to put the jack and axle stands without cracking or bending anything... I was shown a diagram on where to jack and put axle stands but under my car them places are bent in and look unreliable...

Anyone know any other places that wont bend or crack? don't really want to jack from the diff either since they diff housing might crack

- Also a side question..... best recommended gearbox oil for a GTS R33? Manual

The diff housing wont crack dont worry.

Just jack it from the jacking points, or the tow hooks. Use a bit of wood or rubber if your using a trolley on the jacking points. Will save them.

Axle stands, chuck them under the front crossmember. And the rear axles.

Keeping in mind that you MAY have to lower the rear of the motor down to slide the box out and clear the transmission tunnel as you slide it back. Might have to change things around as you go.

The diff housing wont crack dont worry.

Just jack it from the jacking points, or the tow hooks. Use a bit of wood or rubber if your using a trolley on the jacking points. Will save them.

Axle stands, chuck them under the front crossmember. And the rear axles.

Keeping in mind that you MAY have to lower the rear of the motor down to slide the box out and clear the transmission tunnel as you slide it back. Might have to change things around as you go.

Thanks for the info but do you mind taking a few quick photos with simple lables for the axle stand points? ive used the toe hooks previously and will just stick with them but yeah don't feel too comfortable going under the car with shit axle stand points, everything else in regards to cars etc im fine with just not jacking and axle stand points sorry for being a pain in the ass lol thanks!!

I would if i could! But im in Perth and my R33 is in NZ lol.

This one here, they have used the chassy rails for the stands. Its not a big deal to use them, but i would put some wood/rubber on there.

http://www.trak-life.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/DIY-Oil-Change-03.jpg

The crossmember is that black piece of metal with the circle holes in it running under the motor. I use that alot for axle stands.

For the rear its similar. You can put stands under the subframe. Where the arms etc bolt in.

No need to be sorry, its good your asking first. But hard to do after the car topples on you :)

Hopefully someone can shed some light and post up better photos. Tricky to find exactly what you want on google sometimes.

Edited by gotRICE?

The following is what I did to my R34 GTT (hope this helps in some way..)

* my car is really low, so first I got it up on steel ramps using a few planks of timber *

1. Jacked car up from crossmember. Once desired height is reached, I placed the jack stands (grey colour) in the factory scissor jack spot.

2. Raised the rear of the car by using the diff case and placed jack stands (blue colour) at the rear factory scissor jack spots.

My car has aftermarket suspension arms so using that is a no-no for me. Some may argue that using the sills to place jack stands will cause the sills to bend. I use stronger parts of the underbody to jack the car and sills for jack stands.

Have attached some pics of how my car is currently sitting in the garage..

ps. Its a habit of mine to place the tyres under the car (sticking out half way) whenever I take them off - extra insurance ;)

If your doing your g'box oil then shift the tyres around as necessary..

post-100746-13770890916964_thumb.jpgpost-100746-13770891156466_thumb.jpgpost-100746-13770891479426_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...