Jump to content
SAU Community

Might Have Found The Source To The Motor Missfiring

hesh12445

By hesh12445,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hesh12445 Enthusiast

hesh12445

Posted
Posted

hey guys i recently askd for help because of my engine running poor and misfiring under light throttle

well it got worse to the point were i couldnt drive the car and on cold start it would stall

sunday me and my brother took apart the airflow meters (sprayed with light break cleaner spray) and pulled out my coil packs on sparkplugs

my sparkplugs werent bogged they where not the bad but my coil packs i have found to be original and never changed the recent owner has taped the bottom of the coil with electrical tape saying that they must have cracks so for the mean time i retaped the coils and clean the plugs and AFMS, started the car and it ran BEAUTIFULLY not a miss, idled smooth and didnt hunt, i drove it for about 45 minutes giving it some gas here and there and then after it really warmed up the miss came back but slightly and so did the hunting, so on the list of thinhgs i need it will be brand new AFMS, and i think its the HKS pod filters that are shitttt so im changing to duel feed apexi and going genuine coilpacks and new plugs that should do the trick,....

now i have a HKS EVC put it by recent owner set at .7 or .9 and when its turned on neither settings actually control the boost it hits about 1.1 bar at full boost when i have it set to .7 and even when its turned of the stock WG it spikes to 1.1. Sometimes it actually works and the boost doesnt go past .7 or .9 but most of the time it doesnt work and it spikes, there is a exhaust leak but im not to sure how far up its coming from, if you put ur ear to the back passenger side of the car u can hear the poppping noise, maybe TURBO gasket? or manifold gasket? i dunno if its common for them to leak? or mayb after market exhaust system has a leak im not to sure but would that cause the spike or for the car to run like shit when really warm?

thats all ive found so far,, following are the mods

HKS EVC

HKS TURBO TIMER

3INCH EXHAUST STAINLESS STEEL

HKF POD FILTERS

hesh12445 Enthusiast

hesh12445

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im changing the coils as soon as i get the funds, ive realised that when the car drives and holds boost at .7 or .9 it doesnt back fire drives fine but its only when i turn on the boost controller it does all sorts of shit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • soviet_merlin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...