Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

None of you mofos know howto answer a f**king question lol. Cowdy. If you have exceeded the air flow limit of the ecu by say.....upping boost you will get the symptoms you describe. It could also be an air leak from when you installed the new hoses. This advice is based on the problem occuring only after making your recent changes.

None of you mofos know howto answer a f**king question lol. Cowdy. If you have exceeded the air flow limit of the ecu by say.....upping boost you will get the symptoms you describe. It could also be an air leak from when you installed the new hoses. This advice is based on the problem occuring only after making your recent changes.

Who said that we were useful?

None of you mofos know howto answer a f**king question lol. Cowdy. If you have exceeded the air flow limit of the ecu by say.....upping boost you will get the symptoms you describe. It could also be an air leak from when you installed the new hoses. This advice is based on the problem occuring only after making your recent changes.

Or the symptoms are the same as failing coil packs after upping the boost.

Mikey was closest

Igniter gets up to a certain point and then just arks out like a mo fo, only under load tho. Boost back to stock and still doing it at 3000 so I sprayed it in silicone spray. Cut out a rubber may to sit underneath it. No more arking no more silly biz works right till the limiter

Did the same to the one arking pack first and it was still there

So new packs new igniter new fpr new damper and get it down before anything else

Question to myself. Why do I have heater, fuel, oil cooler, silicone and rubber vaccume lines, throttle body clean, silicone spray, clamps, fuel filter, tools and water in my boot. Oh yeah because when I got the car it was filled with useless sh*t that I pulled out and have a spares. Have needed some of it so I'm glad it's there

And wiring

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...