Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

So all the trouble of boring out a 20 block to fit a 25 head for what?

Its still a 20 head just with a 26 crank and SR20 rods from what I remember of them. The bores are way different 20 vs 25 they're like 80mm in the 20 and 86 in the 25 lol.

Its still a 20 head just with a 26 crank and SR20 rods from what I remember of them. The bores are way different 20 vs 25 they're like 80mm in the 20 and 86 in the 25 lol.

So a stroked 20 essentially? Still a dirty 20 then Martin.

Yep essentially that. So you still have to deal with the shit head on the 20.

I can understand the point of it if you want to run in a class that requires original engine, makes sense but you could probably go just as well spending the money on a good turbo set up for it etc.

Run the pinny in street class instead?

Yep essentially that. So you still have to deal with the shit head on the 20.

I can understand the point of it if you want to run in a class that requires original engine, makes sense but you could probably go just as well spending the money on a good turbo set up for it etc.

Run the pinny in street class instead?

That's what I thought, few decent bolt-ons and you're good to go.

That would require registering it with a full weld in cage.

why dafaq you wanna do that???

May as well just put a 26 in it

Bit more capacity, not going to cost that much more than rebuilding a 25 bottom end, I can still use all my bolt ons, etc.

26 into a 31 is a multi million dollar excersize, and I'd basically have to start from scratch. Why the f*ck would I want to do that?

Why? a 60 with hydraulic lifters. I still say 25/30.

See above.

25/30 is a possible option but will probably need a bigger turbo.

Put down the crack pipe and just get a 26?

See above.

If thats the case I'd just stick with getting another 25 into it. extra money spent on the 26 crank would be better spent on tyres and entry fees.

The difference between the two is only 70cc anyway i doubt it will make that much difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...