Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has Anyone got a vi-pec in there r33 rb25 and has a good base map that I could work with to get my car running. Would have to suit 1000cc xspurts/id1000's. I'm waiting for my tech edge wideband to turn up so I'm going to give it a go and play around with the vi-pec tuning software hopefully get it running well enough to take it in to get a full tune done. Any help and tips is appreciated, cheers

You're running a very similar set up to me except I went with a Link G4. My advice to you is if you plan on tuning yourself, then driving it on the street, you'll need to tune real time on the road to correct mixtures at various loads - I do NOT recommend you do this by yourself and it is strongly advised you understand A/F mixtures and timing (among other things) before you attempt anything. Idle mixtures differ greatly compared to mixtures under load (especially with boost coming on). If the vi-pec is anything like the link plug and play (vi-pec and link are incredibly similar), there should be an included base map that will be enough for you to start the car and do any prechecks you need. Typically they are a very rich ('safe') base tune and are exactly that - a base tune, designed to be enough to start the car and drive it onto the dyno for a full tune.

Edited by Reflector

i have some knowledge and understanding, not a great deal but i am intrested in learning to do more of my own tuning in the future. ive done some tuning with a microtech ecu which i done some road tuning in one of my cars in the past and done a fair bit of carby tuning recently on my vs which has an carby ls1 and use msd software for setting ignition maps. ive got vcm suite/hp tuners software which ive used in my old vz ls1 obviosaly the vi-pec is a lot more complex and a different ball game with boost but i gotta start some where thoe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...