Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, just bought a r33 gtst and on the way home I started getting a idle surge hovers around 800-1200 almost stalls sometimes but will regain idle after a few seconds to a min.

Not sure if it has a aftermarket bov that is causing the problem.

Also a rubbery squeaking sound from behind timing cover. Could it be just a tensioner.

Has a gizmo boost controller too wtf how do you work it???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431744-just-bought-r33-idle-surging/
Share on other sites

Ok pulled off the AAC valve and it was a bit covered in engine breather gunk.

Took the solinionds off it washed in diesel than cleaned with carby cleaner put back together installed, than went for a drive and it's sweet.

Purrs like a kitten all the time.

Noise behind timing cover has gone but I suspect it's a belt tensioner, geeeeeez $300 for a kit

Seen the gates racing one on eBay a lot cheaper are they a good kit for these engines.

Also noticed a very high pitch squeal from the turbo like a dog whistle, it's only on very light throttle every now and than. Sounds like and old bluebird CA18 turbo sound. Weirdest sounding turbo out there if you ever heard one.

Still hold boost but the pull is not consistent from mid to high revs, only very noticeable. But than again it's got 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 pipe than goes to the rear muffler and reduces to about 2 lol previous owner was defected. Will this all reduce high range power maybe a stupid question to ask.

93 R33 GTS-t do they only come with a tiny front mount?

Edited by Darky82

Noise behind timing cover has gone but I suspect it's a belt tensioner, geeeeeez $300 for a kit

Seen the gates racing one on eBay a lot cheaper are they a good kit for these engines.

93 R33 GTS-t do they only come with a tiny front mount?

No need for a racing (blue) belt unless youre pulling mass power, and theyre noisy. Just go genuine Nissan.

Should be a tiny side mount.

Edited by homsniff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...