Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, my clutch is fried green tomatos.

Help me choose a decent clutch/flywheel combo for my 32 GTS-T! I want something that feels nice and heavy under the foot, a clutch that is not going to turn my poor little rb20det gearbox into cog soup! And a very responsive flywheel. I dont mind sacrificing a little drive-a-bility :)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43275-help-me-choose-a-clutchflywheel/
Share on other sites

Go see Ross at Auto Clutch and tell him what you use your car for eg if it's a strip master,he did my RB20det 9puck ceramic 2500pound clutch with new thrust bearing and machined the fly wheel for $560 I think.

The pedal is hard but is still very driveable once warn in and your used to it.I can chirp 5th if I try but I don't think the bearbox likes it.

He also sells lighter flywheels for @$500 i think.

I just got a new clutch in r33 gtst its an Xtreme. It really grabs not to heavy but you know its there, every gear just goes in perfect and car feels more responsive( mabee cause my clutch was fried for 6 months and i was still driving it).Set me back $1000 installed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...