Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,


please read the whole add before texting
this car is in its final stages of being complete! but i have blown too much money and dont want to put any more into it as an oportunity to own a house has come up. i have spent will over 13k on the engine alone listed parts are below


CUSTOM metallic blue/purple clear
body is standard, no stupi kits. looks as very simple and clean. untill u bump into another gtr at the lights...

R33 GTR ENGINE 67000KMS
Cp forged pistons
TOMEI PONCAM TYPE B
Acl gasket kit
Argo rods
Arp main studs
Arp head studs
Acl bearings
Nitto oil pump
Full reco head with baby cams
Custom made exhaust manifold (not eBay shit)
Gt35/40 with 60 mm turbo smart external waste gate
screamer
800cc injectors
SARD fuel reg
POWER FC
full 3 inch exhaust with high flow cat
BRAND NEW 600x300x100 front mount

many more parts come with the car so come have a look if you are GENUINE!

things that need to be done.

- shimming of poncams
-brackets and piping made for new front mount
- tune

turbo can handle up to 420kw
internals can go way higher. If you want more power strap on a bigger turbo n ur done.

my loss is ur gain. finish this car and enjoy it.

why buy a stock gtr for 20k and then pump 10-15 k into work. its already been done here. get a mechanic to come look at the work if you want.

do some reasearch and look up the costs of all these parts and then get a quote for labour. you will see how quickly it adds up if you do this your self


notes: will come with standard wheels with rubber that needs replacing
interior - driver seat is a bit torn but still ok
many more things included ie. boost controllers etc but im only noting the major things. come have a look for yourself, ill be giving away everything if sold at asking price. this includes spares, turbo timers, boost controllers, bee r limiters , oil relocator kit, oil cooler . many many more parts to list

If this does not sell.. i will finish it.. and drive it.. hard

http://www.gumtree.com.au/m-my-ad.html?adId=1029910570

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...