Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy so I've got a 34 and I wanted to go for a bit more of a modern look I've got the clear Nismo indicators plus my standard amber ones. Any way 1 night I got bored and got my old amber indicators out I had some amber led strips that I brought from eBay so I'll be posting a step by step on how to do this as soon as I get the pictures from my old I phone ( that's if any one wants to do it ) but here is the end result .post-99784-13824614557685_thumb.jpgpost-99784-13824614690287_thumb.jpgpost-99784-13824615104787_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433812-diy-r34-custom-led-indicators/
Share on other sites

Ok guys I'm going to post this in the DIY section but I'll post it here for you guys first

Items you will need :

carbon fiber wrap (eBay stuff is fine)

drill with small drill bit

Scissors / hobby knife

Double sided tape ($3.00 eBay)

Clear amber Led strip ($6.00 eBay)

X2 Led decoder ($7.00 eBay)

Step 1

remove your old indicators you can do this with a flat head screwdriver make sure you wrap it in a cloth so you don't damage the paint.

Step 2

Cover the indicator with carbon fiber wrap or you can just spray the black if you don't want to use cf wrap.

post-99784-1383126553458_thumb.jpg

Step 3

Next drill a small hole in middle on any side (be carful as they do tend to crack)

post-99784-13831266863944_thumb.jpg

Step 4

Once that is done get the led indicators and feed the wires through the hole. post-99784-13831269783807_thumb.jpg

Step 5

Once the wires are through apply the double sided tape to the led strips or strip depending on what you go for. Once there tape is on stick them down how you want.

post-99784-13831271043712_thumb.jpg

Step 6

Now comes the part that you decide. You can either put the wires into the existing globe socket and put your existing globe in there this will stop the hyper flashing once that's done you can plug them in and away you go. If you want to go down the other path read step 7. post-99784-13831273015297_thumb.jpg

Step 7

If you want things 100% safe the steps are similar.

Take the lens off your indicators you can do this by melting the glue around the sides I put mine in the oven on 70 for 6-7 minuets (don't quote me use the forums I'm sure they have a better way)

Once that's done wrap the lens in carbon fiber and drill the hole in the lens

Put the wires through the hole and the connect the wires to the led decoder (solder them better connection) post-99784-13831278677772_thumb.jpgpost-99784-13831278832642_thumb.jpg

You will need to have the led decoder sitting the the indicators itself there is plenty of room for it. Make sure the t20 globe adaptor is hanging out the other side where you plug the light in. post-99784-13831281576142_thumb.jpg

Once that's done test it. You don't want to glue it then have to un glue it!. Once you have tested it glue the lens back on some cilicone or gasket sealer should do the job leave to dry over night the it's a simple plug and play.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...