Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

firstly you need to work out why the engine failed. because if you rebuild the engine the issue might still be there and carry on to give you the same result on the next engine. Engines dont break just for the hell of it.

I would be looking at your Five 0 injectors.... id be getting them flow tested and see if they are working correctly then move on from there.

just grab some cheap replacement cast pistons, you are only after 300kw so no need for forgies.

good luck,

firstly you need to work out why the engine failed. because if you rebuild the engine the issue might still be there and carry on to give you the same result on the next engine. Engines dont break just for the hell of it.

I would be looking at your Five 0 injectors.... id be getting them flow tested and see if they are working correctly then move on from there.

just grab some cheap replacement cast pistons, you are only after 300kw so no need for forgies.

good luck,

Strong piece of advice - thanks :)

I had the injectors flow tested at unique autosports and they said the spray pattern isn't too bad... Not the best but definitely nothing to worry about.

I guess before I decide what I need to buy, I'll rip the motor apart and inspect exactly what happened there.

I can tell you oil pressure was fine, there was still coolant in the radiator (and temperatures were perfectly normal). The only thing the dyno diagnostic thingy picked up at that point when the disaster struct was a misfire which dropped the afr from 12 to 10.

To throw a spanner in the works - prior to the beginning of my modifications, catch can clogged up and built crankcase pressure. This blew my turbo and from there I started the project. I'm thinking it must of f**ked the bottom end too and it didn't show up until the tuner started puttin some pressure on the motor!

Sucks to be me at the moment :P but I can't wait to get her back on the road (gunna be fun)!

yeah, well you could be right... you could have damaged a ring land and then when tuning it the damage could have got worse.

just make sure everything is okay on your next rebuild.... and 25 bottom ends are not that hard to find.. many people are doing twin cam rb30 conversions.

I think you may have misread my post - the engine shat itself and the best reading I received was 184rwkw at 8.2psi. I was planning on running it at 20psi which would of given me roughly 300rwkw. :)

My car now runs at 0rwkw and pours out an awesome smoke show from the tail pipe ;).

PS: Running a microtech.

ahh I see...I totally misread it then....I really should stay away from this section after a few beers ...

  • Like 1

guys noticed something wierd - yeh one of the rings has gone dud but it only blows a little bit of smoke and increases when reving the car past the 6000rpm limit, however i parked the car on my driveway (which is an uphill) to wash it and then when i turned the car on, it poured out oily smoke from the exhaust for about 5 - 10 minutes and went away.

I've tried searching and spoke to my tuner, internet gave me nothing and my tuner said it might be a blocked drain in turbo or something... has anybody ever experienced this or got any useful comments to throw at me?

Thanks in advance :)

I've never heard of that happening but it would make sense if the engine is pumping oil into the turbo and it's not draining back.

getting the the oil return is fairly easy and although I feel like you won't find anything wrong with it; it may be worth just ruling it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...