Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to new business venture and fact i'm upgrading from my 32 to a new 35, i have a couple of items for sale

First off is a 2nd hand RB26 Twin Turbo HKS 3037 Ceramic Kit, all pipes for kit have been ceramic coated including the custom airbox to suit an R32 GTR. Comes with all piping to fit as well as the dump pipes off the twin wastegates

I bought this kit from Garage 101 in Perth and was informed this kit was rebuilt around 5000km ago, feel free to contact them about this kit if you need some more info (i have nothing to hide)

I can't tell you much about it but i do know i was going to set this up for a lazy 800hp if i kept the car, this kit will easily make in excess of 1000hp if required with right setup

All braided lines etc come with the kit

Whole kit is boxed up ready to ship, i did take some photos but only unwrapped the 2 turbos as i didn't want to unwrap the whole kit out of the bubblewrap it is in (refer to pics)

PRICE is $4500 + shipping

These kits are pretty much unobtainable so please no lowballers, this kit is very fairly priced anyway

HKSBAY_zps98dbc6fd.jpg

T2eC16ZHJFoE9nh6pMoBREzhS37w60_3_zps3f3b

HKSKIT_zps12d3007f.jpg

hksturbokit7_zpsc2c7f621.jpg

hksturbokit5_zps700eb61a.jpg

hksturbokit4_zps643babbe.jpg

hksturbokit3_zps0331b73b.jpg

hksturbokit_zps993df8fa.jpg

hksturbokit1_zps6e58126d.jpg

hksturbokit2_zpsf1048c50.jpg

Also have a BRAND NEW Plazmaman 100mm Drag Intercooler for sale

These are a well proven intercooler in the racing industry and can flow over 1000hp

PRICE is $1600 + shipping

Cheaper than you can buy them from the manufacturer

P9170443_zps040d47a4.jpg

P9170450_zpsb8b3dfce.jpg

In response to all that have asked i'll make it clear here

Yes i will except a payment plan but only if you pay 50% deposit up front and can pay rest off in timely manner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...