Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I own a 04 V35 skyline..

I have had the screen converted to English..cost $180 which is Steep after having it done for what your going to use is for is pretty expensive..

Although I do like the fact I can change my service interval dates(once a year..)

I figured seeing as though I have had that done i am in the process of getting my iphone working through the Jap tv tuner in next couple of weeks through Simon In Brisbane..

I will be doing the band expander shortly. Im looking at only 2 types i can find on ebay.

One swears 18MHZ is the best way to go but only has a positive wire and the other shows it has a neg and positive feed which will

STOP the humming sound...

Anyone have much advice which to go for??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FM-Band-expander-Japanese-Auto-FM-RADIO-CONVERTER-JAPANESE-AM-Bypass-DualContact-/120947857645?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item1c290dd8ed

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-V35-Stagea-M35-Elgrand-Radio-FM-Band-Expander-Frequency-Converter-/251386594943?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a87cf067f

Regarding SAT Nav . Although im not too bothered going to the expensive efforts just for sat nav, i stumbled across this company below has managed to successfully use the original OEM Jap screen to uk maps and have hidden away a sat nav that can connect through the t.v screen...

possibly done for AU?

http://soarer.tv/jap-imports-sva/Nissan-350-GT-Skyline-Satellite-Navigation-Conversions.htm

Edited by chiefster1976
  • 2 months later...

Well looking at the connections from jap tuner to 3x RCA outputs is an easy fix to get your ipod working on your TV. All you need then is 3 RCA to ipod cable.

JOB done..

I admit although IMO $180 is steep to get it into English its better for resale so I got it done. Only need the band expander fitted now.

$180 English conversion

$ 30-60 approx. for cables.

$ 15 FM band expander.

Still need the ipod dock for the ashtray...

Hi Chris, did you ever successfully change the sat nav to utilize the oem buttons (the ones that are in Japanese)? How close to having the whole system fully converted can you get? Is there anything that is not possible to convert? I think a 4 figure price is reasonable if it is comprehensive.

shelved the idea. I have the buttons mapped but due to lack of interest and everyone bitching about costs I left it be.

3 posts above is a prime example.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...