Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey thats one of my special mods....don't give out all my secrets :) Good thing Shaun is doing some minor work to finish it....and NO we dont need to see anymore pics..:(

Back on topic

edit/ How about some photos of the 7 pages worth of problems wrong with your new paint job then, eh?...lol

not that much work.... if you just run a petrol rb20det you dont have to change anything. the cost and hassle of doing it would offset the cheaper price/litre of lpg. if it was an n/a v8, id say go for it, but not on an rb20det.

Slip,

It really depends on your plans later down the track.

If you are looking at doing the usual mods Powerfc, injectors, big fuel pump etc it will work out the same price to simply keep the stock ecu, slap a gas research carb in there and twin B2 gas convertors. Build the motor with a high static comp pump some nice boost in there and there's no reason why you won't crank 250rwkw on a RB20t.

The higher static comp on the rb20 will help out with the off boost torque and spool rate of the obviously large turbo.

Saying that though you would really have to look in to it properly as unexpected costs always arise. :D

http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0043&P=1

I've got a Zoom magazine here that has an old 250 XE Ford.

It is making 380rwkw with 1.72bar - GT40, 8:1 comp, 1 x 480cfm Gas research carb, 2 x B2 Gas convertors.

It also states that the 250 is able to take a lot of ignition timing - 22degree's with is impressive when you consider the boost and how volatile the 250's are in std form.

Running a near stock static comp for the 250 and running that much boost is pretty damn impressive. Any one who has fiddled with the old 250's will know how easy it is to get them to detonate.

If I were to build a rb20t on gas I wouldn't think twice about using a 10:1 static comp, a GT2535 pump the boost in to it and make a nice 240rwkw. :(

Would be quite a nice package. Hey maybe just use a RB20DE. :)

Some one willing to fiddle with a RB25DE or RB20DE to see how well it really works? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
    • nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping
×
×
  • Create New...