Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I recently bought this GTR and I'm not in a rush to sell it, I love it. I'm just putting it up for sale merely as an expression of interest, an exercise out of boredom if you will. If it sells, I'll move on, if not I'm completely happy to keep it :)

The engine was built by Gavin Wood on the Gold Coast, the mods are as follows:

CP Pistons

Eagle Rods

Tomei 270 cams

Springs/Retainers

N1 turbos with HKS actuators

Full custom tucked 3.5" exhaust and high flow cat made by Fabulous Fabrications (beautiful work) along with custom Hot/Cold cooler pipe.

Intercooler

Haltec Platinum Pro ECU

Bilstein/Eibach strut/spring combo

Cusco Swaybars

Cusco 1.5w rear diff, fully rebuilt and new diff bushing installed with newer (and slightly larger/stronger) R33 half shafts

Ikeya Formula front and rear upper control arms.

HICAS delete.

Desmond Regamasters in 17x10 + 20 wrapped in near new Federal 595 RSR's

The car made 385hp at all four on 18 psi and at a very rich tune of 11:1 up top. If I keep it, it'll be getting a retune shortly for more boost and a little less fuel, but it's quick as it is.

Aircon is cold, chassis rails are straight, no rust, this is a clean GTR :)

2 minor issues, the passenger side dash vent is missing (previous owner broke it trying to install a cup holder) and it needs new coil pack connectors and possibly coil packs. The coil issue will be taken care of prior to sale and I can chuck a vent in it, I just haven't found one for sale yet.

JerryGTR7_zpsb93a24ba.jpg

JerryGTR4_zps97c23603.jpg

JerryGTR10_zps6a90627f.jpg

JerryGTR2_zpsbc3c9bad.jpg

$21,000 ono

Will entertain the thought of trades, just depends on what I'm being offered but send your offers through anyway, it can't hurt!

0401029817

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437696-r32-gtr-forged-motor-mods/
Share on other sites

Since listing for sale the car has had
New coils (old coils were fine, misfire was being caused by a boost leak thanks for a faulty coupler)
Service in the last 100km
Brake rotors machined and pads linished, brand new pads
Replaced coupler to get rid of boost leak
The car is ready for its new home

It's an 89 Grant, yes I have a dyno graph floating around somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...