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R33 gtr vspec front seats drivers has small rip on bolster very tiny tho $700
R33 gtr brembo brakes front And rear freshly painted etc comes with brand new rotors all round still in box also comes with Bmc57 and booster $1800ono
R33 gtr rear seat $200
R33 gtr pull type gearbox $900
R33 gtr drivers side 2 peice side skirt $50
R33 gtr engine wiring loom $150
R33 gtr standard Ecu $70
R33 rb26 exedy clutch with brand new in the box clutch plate $250
R33 gtr air flow meters $100 pair or $50 for one
R33 gtr bov set up $130
R33 gtr window switch $60
R33 gtr front strut brace genuine $70
R33 gtr rear strut brace genuine $70
R33 gtr alternator reconditioned at some stage $100
R33 gtr tailshaft $100
Rb26 standard front pipe $50
R33 mint leather gearboot with matching handbrake boot carbon style $50
R33 gearbox surround with nismo shift pattern $50
R33 Gtr genuine wing $250
R33 Gtr boot interior $70
R33 Gtr genuine matts need a clean $40
R33 lock bar $30
R33 Gtr fuel pump $50
R33 Gtr vspec diff $300
R33 Gtr vspec shafts $180 pair
R33 Gtr washer bottle $40
R33 Gtr radiator $70
R33 Gtr clutch fan $40
R33 Gtr clutch master $70
R33 Gtr gearbox crossmember $50
R33 radio surround $50
Many other parts available

Gold Coast but happy to post
0487924497
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Edited by toy515
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439063-r33-gtr-and-rb26-parts-galore/
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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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