Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After seeing some dyno sheets of the hypergear atr43ss2 i think it'll be a bit laggy for me.

Does anyone have any opinions in terms of response on INTERNALLY GATED kinugawa td06-20g-10cm and hypergears atr43ss1/pu or their op6 highflows?

I've got so many people telling me mixed sht I just want some opinions which will be best for the street. I want full boost as EARLY as possible and want to be around the 280rwkw mark.

Keeping in mind the td06 is $500 cheaper too

Rb25det fresh forged

E85

Tomei 256 cams

Supporting mods

Std manifold / int gate

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439785-kinugawa-td06-20g-10cm-vs-atr43ss1/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe it's time for a M3 F80 LCI, and leave it stock.  Drive it to a shop, sip on your latte with nutmeg whilst it gets serviced and on the way home swing by and grab some chai mix for the evening.
    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
×
×
  • Create New...