R33 Rough Starting Up

[RamR33]

Hi guys,

Have a small problem with starting up after leaving the car for few hours or when cold.

just started to happen recently.

when I go to start up car when its cold it will sometimes just idle and usually does hold idle ok but sounds like a wrx till it hits around 60/70 temp on my power fc then it will smoothen out and clear up and runs fine.

today it started up fine went around then done it on cold like on 5 cylinders it sounded it was running on and then a minute later or so cleared up and back perfect again and once on normal running temp never has a problem at all can start 100 times and will be fine.

ive got new coil packs/spark plugs/fuel filter

thought maybe blocked injector

havent cleaned the aac valve yet and probably try and clean the afm again after a few month but doubt the afm would do that.

Only does it either first starting up and sometimes in between low and high temp,just before it hits the normal temp and then it will never do it again.

maybe water temp sensor/ecu

any help would be great as kinda stuck for now and hate when it does it until warms up.

[89CAL]

Look at the cold start valve, might be causing an issue.

Was the idle self learn done properly on the power fc? What does your sensor/sw page in 'ETC' show? If the PFC HC shows temperature normal then it isnt the water temp sensor. Could try cleaning the aac but if it idles ok after warming up im not to sure it will be that.

What does your timing do on cold start and does it smell rich or not really?

[RamR33]

Yea it does smell like fuel bad but only when its running like unpluging 2 coilpacks but sounds dufferent to een unplugging a coilgot it dyno tuned at trent done for me and everything perfect and all but had a little hesitation to drive when cold ..so took it back to give it a bit more fuel on cold start and started happening next day.

Fuel was fine and spark was all good.

I guess I can rule out afm,fuel pump and injectors as I no if it was afm or fuel pump it would just either not start or just die which never happens.

[RamR33]

Yea it does smell like fuel bad but only when its running like unplugging 2 coil packs but sounds different to unplugging coil packs.

Got it dyno tuned by trent for me and everything perfect and all but had a little hesitation when cold driving it so took it back to give it a bit more fuel for cold start and driving and this started to happen the following day.

fuel was fine and spark all good.

I guess I can rule out afm,fuel pump and injectors as I think if it was afm or fuel pump it would just either die or not start which has never happened.

sorry about the spelling on the before msg as was using mobile phone.

[89CAL]

Get some figures off your PFC for us to look at. Give us a rough indication of what your timing is doing (it should fluctuate a couple of degrees, but the average timing or what it sits on the most while its doing it), What injectors and what injector Duty Cycle? What does your sensor/sw page on the hand controller say?

Is the base timing set up right?

[sonicz]

I had the exact same issue you are describing, but now #6 cylinder doesn't work at all. It was intermittent until the car warmed up last week. I suspect dead injectors in mine.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/439938-car-firing-on-4-5-cylinders-for-a-few-min-until-it-warms-up-and-smell-of-fuel-in-engine-oil/

Might give you some idea.

[RamR33]

Thanks for that.

My problem has gotten worse now.

so as i started the car cold and it started to run rough/wrx note for a few seconds and misfire abit as I went for a short drive warmed it up and then pushed a bit of throttle and all good until I came to a stop and the idle started hunting between 800rpm- 1300rmp so decided to drive to go home and would not go past 2500rm and would hesitate and the exhaust note was brrrrrrrrr brrrrrrr and just wouldn't go past 2500rmp.

Got home and turned it off and checked for any leaks and nothing.

so started it again and just hunting betwwen that rpm range I said before.

I did unplug my afm while on idle and turned off but took awhile to turn off like 5 seconds.

thinking it might be my z32 afm.

would a afm do that if it was faulty those symtoms? as I got it with the car this z32 afm but don't wanna buy new one and it isn't the problem.

Edited March 11, 2014 by RamR33

[89CAL]

I've offered advice, and need some feedback. I cant help if you dont want to listen

[RamR33]

Hey 89cal I took these pics while on idle for ign ,cranking page and the sensor/sw page

https://imageshack.com/i/e9ninvj

https://imageshack.com/i/j7n2y0j

https://imageshack.com/i/np82exj

https://imageshack.com/i/giz9abj

[89CAL]

Ah sorry I meant from the monitor screen. What the injectors and timing etc are doing real time

Looks like your tps is set wrong though. Should be 0.45v on closed throttle

If the car is running there your o2 sensor looks not quite right to me either

Set the tps and see what happens. I dont think It will go into the proper idle map if the tps is set to high (which yours is)

[RamR33]

Well I've replaced the o2 sensor with a working one so then I took the photos.

What if my tps is damaged could it be on that reading it's showing?

I've changed fuel filter,fuel lines,new afm,spark plugs..

I'm running stock bov which I've got one spare to replace just for piece of Mind u guess.

I'll try get the monitor reading pictures for better understanding.

[RamR33]

Well I've replaced the o2 sensor with a working one so then I took the photos.

What if my tps is damaged could it be on that reading it's showing?

I've changed fuel filter,fuel lines,new afm,spark plugs..

I'm running stock bov which I've got one spare to replace just for piece of mind.

I'll try get the monitor reading pictures for better understanding on cold when it's running bad

[89CAL]

adjust the TPS before assuming it is wrecked. Not a hard job with the Hand Controller, even easier with 2 people.

With the key on (car not started) Just loosen the 2 bolts slightly, rotate the TPS one way and see if the reading goes down or up. You want to get it to 0.44v-0.50v I think is the spec. Its a bit tricky doing it by yourself but shouldnt take more then 5 mins. I think this might fix your problem a little bit if not completely.

Is the shot of the Sensor/Sw screen with the car idling?

Edited March 12, 2014 by 89CAL

[RamR33]

Yes that was the screen shot taken when idling.

I will give it a shot and get back to you on any changes to its problem.

[RamR33]

Car has gotten worse as wont go past 3000rpm now but gets a little bit of boost at around 5/6 psi so might no be a vacuum leak.

Things I have changed and checked to be ok.

AFM NEW but unsure still could be the plug

SPARK PLUGS BCPR7ES .8

FUEL FILTER AND FUEL LINES

INTAKE GONE BACK TO STANDARD

BOV CHANGED WITH WORKING ONE

RE-DONE ALL VACUUM LINES AGAIN

TPS WORKING

COOLANT TEMP SENSOR WORKING

COIL PACKS SPLITFIRE WITH NEW COIL PACK LOOM

Aac VALVE CLEANED

Only things left are fuel pump ,injectors,ignitor box and crank angle sensor.

im thinking fuel pump but still leaning towards the AFM.

[89CAL]

Did you adjust the tps to correct voltage?

Check base timing

[RamR33]

Gonna try that next with someone checking my controller as I move it.

My tps has never been touched for over a year and car never acted like this so bit confused, but will try it.

[89CAL]

Mine did a similar thing. Was fine, voltage was right. Then one day it started playing up. Voltage was still ok but for some reason just wasnt happy. Played around with tps and eventually it came good again. Not sure what happened

[RamR33]

Played around but did nothing to be honest and was tuned that way.

Just got worse so taking it in to get it diagnosed tommorow.

Even changed to a brand new fuel pump and AFM.

Will report back here to let u know as I'm just curious and done everything I can do for now.

[RamR33]

One thing I did notice last time I tested it was driving it really slow through the Rev range with little acceleration it would get up to 4000rpm but if Im normal driving it struggles to get past 2500rpm 3000rpm and like hits a wall but does make boost like around 5/6 psi depending on how much accelerator I use.