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Aftermarket parts galore

Tomei sump baffle $180

Nismo fuel reg $100

Denso 740cc injectors rb26 direct fit $400

Splitfire coilpacks $340

Manley rods h beam used rb26 $350

Mahle forged pistons 86.5 rb26 $450

Apexi avcr black edition comes with manuals etc complete $350

Xforce stainless dump pipes for rb26 with O2 sensors $170

N1 turbo steel wheel rebuild kit for standard r32 r33 Gtr turbos $150

Rb26 stainless front pipe $150

Apexi turbo timer $30

Greddy turbo timer $30

Blitz turbo timer $20

Hks turbo timer $20

Turbosmart boost controller solenoid $30

Splitfire gauges $30

Autometer exhaust temp gauge and sender $50

Auto meter boost gauge 60mm $30

Hid kit removed from r33 gtst $20

Tein Coilovers spanners $50

Apexi boost gauge $40

Drift boost gauge $30

Yellow earthing kit $20

Rb26 hks fuel rail missing hks badge $50

R33 Gtr genuine strut brace front and rear $70 each

Nardi boss kit $50

Turbosmart supersonic bov $50

Gold Coast

0487924497

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
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