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Aftermarket parts galore

Tomei sump baffle $180

Nismo fuel reg $100

Denso 740cc injectors rb26 direct fit $400

Splitfire coilpacks $340

Manley rods h beam used rb26 $350

Mahle forged pistons 86.5 rb26 $450

Apexi avcr black edition comes with manuals etc complete $350

Xforce stainless dump pipes for rb26 with O2 sensors $170

N1 turbo steel wheel rebuild kit for standard r32 r33 Gtr turbos $150

Rb26 stainless front pipe $150

Apexi turbo timer $30

Greddy turbo timer $30

Blitz turbo timer $20

Hks turbo timer $20

Turbosmart boost controller solenoid $30

Splitfire gauges $30

Autometer exhaust temp gauge and sender $50

Auto meter boost gauge 60mm $30

Hid kit removed from r33 gtst $20

Tein Coilovers spanners $50

Apexi boost gauge $40

Drift boost gauge $30

Yellow earthing kit $20

Rb26 hks fuel rail missing hks badge $50

R33 Gtr genuine strut brace front and rear $70 each

Nardi boss kit $50

Turbosmart supersonic bov $50

Gold Coast

0487924497

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  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
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