Jump to content
SAU Community

HICAS light comes on when driving at a constant speed over 100km.

CONAN

By CONAN,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

Tyres different rotational circumference to the rear tyres, or the steering wheel sensor (behind steering wheel) needs realigning.

(EDIT: the differance in Tyre profile will only affect vehicles with ABS and Attessa and won't affect those with Hicas as it get its speed reading from the gearbox)

MEGA

CONAN Rising Star

CONAN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your help Mega.

The 2 front tyres that I changed are still the same size as my last 2 front tyres though, and the HICAS never appeared back thenso i dont think that could be the problem or could it? My front tyres are 225's and my rears are 265's.

Though i think it could be the steering wheel sensor that you speak of, since my mechanic did have to open up my steering wheel the other day.

Is it an easy job to realign the steering wheel sensor?

If so can you tell me what i need to do or should i just take it to a workshop?

Regards

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

Its not the 225 or the 265, its the profile which will be 50, 55 or 65 etc that I was refering too though. (although this seems to affect vehicles equiped with attessa more than ones with hicas though, sorry my bad!)

But if your mechanic removed the steering wheel then he must have done a wheel alignment and straightened the steering wheel by removing it and changing the position on the spline, this will be fine on any other car but not on one with hicas, the poor car thinks its going round in circles hence the error code.

As for fixing it, maybe do a search as it has been covered before with pictures and descriptions on how to realign.

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

There is no easy fix if its the tyre profile as the car will be getting two different speed sensor readings from the front to the back, so basically need to change the tyres to the same profile as the back to remove the error in the system. Hicas has two speed settings fast and slow, and this changes the system to suit fast corners or slow ones, if there is a marginal differance between the two speed sensors (front/back) it will shut down hicas.

MEGA

NismoGirl Grand Master

NismoGirl

Posted
Posted

Ok. I have this problem like this. Could just be conincidental that it's happened when you changed the tyres.

This is the problem I have with my hicas. If I drive on the M1 (Brisbane - Gold Coast) to about the Strawberry Farm half way down the coast (say 30/40ks?) the light comes on.

I've had heaps of problems with my hicas since purchasing the car. Once it was realised that there were wires disconnected, it was all fixed. Then driving up to the sunny coast one night the light came back on. I was fuming.

Ended up getting the car put onto the diagnostics machine and it said that there was a fault in the sensor in the steering wheel.

Basically to put it simply, there is a sensor in the steering wheel that can loose contact sometimes. This happens if the wheel is held straight or moved slightly for a long period. I was told this sensor was about $300 to fix but seeming it only happens on the highway (when hicas comes into effect) I didn't bother getting it fixed because I dont personally do highspeed lane changes and drastic steering movements on a straight road.

If you can, try and get someone to plug your car into a consult machine and get a report printed out on what fault is coming up in the diagnostics.

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

Ylwgtr2 is right the chances that someone has the consult is slim, on board diagnostics is the best way and its free too.

Nothing is this conincidental if your playing with the steering wheel position as is the things the hicas rely on. The speed sensor and the steering angle sensor are the eyes and ears of the hicas system.

MEGA

Baroo Newbie

Baroo

Posted
Posted

If it is the same problem as the Z32 i've got then it could most likely be the hicas system acting on its own due to something being aligned incorrectly as my steering is slightly to the left when i travel along highways the hicas thinks i'm constantly turning and it recognises this and turns itself off. Therefore basically /hopefully all u need to do is fix whatever is causing this.

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

Sorry Conan I have led you down the garden path, the steering angle sensor is out or not working properly because the only thing that works off the individual wheel speed sensors is the ABS system and attessa equiped vehicles (GTR's and GTS4's) and yours being a R34 GT-T it will be the sensor behind the steerig wheel that is out of alignment.

The hicas system gets its speed reading from the gearbox and this won't change no matter what profile tyre you use.

Take it back to the mechanic to fix it or ask him if he moved the position of the steering wheel, if he has tell him it needs to be aligned or put back to neutral position.

I hope you see this before you change try and change tyres.

Sorry if I caused any trouble again!

MEGA

OMRAN Collaborator

OMRAN

Posted
Posted
Sorry Conan I have led you down the garden path, the steering angle sensor is out or not working properly because the only thing that works off the individual wheel speed sensors is the ABS system and attessa equiped vehicles (GTR's and GTS4's) and yours being a R34 GT-T it will be the sensor behind the steerig wheel that is out of alignment.

as Mega said .... its the sensor ... (100%)

i have the same problem ... with my R34 GT-T .. its still there .. coz my car is converted to ( left hand ) and the steering box am using now is for nissan maxima ... which has no sensor ...

so .. the hicas coms out on highways ... only ..

check u'r sensor ... if its pluged ... or if somthin wrong with it ... ( hope its only unpluged )

good luck ...

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted
Thanks OMRAN.

But will it be of any risk if i dont get the sensor fixed?

Can HICAS screw me up if i constantly drive on the high way?

No it wont harm/risk anything as all it does is disables the hicas system and stores an error code for consult or diagnostics to retreive at a later date, which means that after 100 your car will act like a normal car that has 2 wheel steering.

I have attached some pics to help you understand the hicas system a bit better, you might find them interesting. (though they are for nissan's turbo Z they are the same in principle)

MEGA

OMRAN Collaborator

OMRAN

Posted
Posted
Thanks OMRAN.

But will it be of any risk if i dont get the sensor fixed?

Can HICAS screw me up if i constantly drive on the high way?

i think .. u can read what MegaGTS4 have posted .... .. i think he have more experiance in hicas ... then me .. :D

and .. what i know .. is that it wont f*&^ up u'r hicas ....

and as Mega said ... u will be driving with 2 wheel steering ... ( thats am not sure about ... )

i'll try to see it my self .... if the hicas light go's on .. i'll stop the car .. and move the steering all the way ... right .. to .. left ... and look at the rear wheel .. if it start moving or not ... ( its a slight move .. 4 degrees only )

thanx alot MEGA ... u'v been helpfull .. :) ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...