Jump to content
SAU Community

Pics From Recent Paint Job! <56k Users Beware>


Recommended Posts

exact same situation with my gf's car when someone hit her. the job was absolute shite and it was obvious. we got in a number of arguments with the panel beater and took it back there at least 10 times threatening if htey didnt fix it we would go to the insurance company. they pleaded with us not to but in the end we did. it was RAC and it was very good. they agreed fully with everything we said. the assessor took the car and said i will call when we are satisfied that it is done properly. they took the car back and told them to fix everything, ended up redoing everything again, including a new bumper, front bar and two front quarters and a new tyre. RAC told us we should have gone straight to them when it wasnt right in the first place.

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This is werid,

But it is a dodgey paint job because, they must of used 2pack paint like arcryclic(spell?) paint i'ved noticed this when i had my Pulsar SSS it had Japanese paint but when i went to touch it up etc i would get the result that you have until i got speical paint from oversea's. Japanese cars used better paint job not the 2pack shit we use here.

man im gonna post up some paint work i have done in my clean shed,

im not qualified but just learnt by my self, my work would embarass the half retarted apprentice that did that work jesus ill never go to a crash shop i gotta a welder an expensive spray gun and get paint at trade price couple of hammers ill do all my body work for ever

take the shop that did that abortion of work to the cleaners its just bullcrap how they take people for a ride man im pissed of

Hope you get it sorted chief

This is werid,

                      But it is a dodgey paint job because, they must of used 2pack paint like arcryclic(spell?) paint i'ved noticed this when i had my Pulsar SSS it had Japanese paint but when i went to touch it up etc i would get the result that you have until i got speical paint from oversea's.  Japanese cars used better paint job not the 2pack shit we use here.

the paint we have here is fine as long as the probr stuff is used.

Problem is crash shops use cheap shit so that the profits are up.

I occasionaly buy paint and for base coat 2pak group 4 pay approx 180 per liter the stuff they use is prob about 80 bucks home brand crap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...