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Pics From Recent Paint Job! <56k Users Beware>


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exact same situation with my gf's car when someone hit her. the job was absolute shite and it was obvious. we got in a number of arguments with the panel beater and took it back there at least 10 times threatening if htey didnt fix it we would go to the insurance company. they pleaded with us not to but in the end we did. it was RAC and it was very good. they agreed fully with everything we said. the assessor took the car and said i will call when we are satisfied that it is done properly. they took the car back and told them to fix everything, ended up redoing everything again, including a new bumper, front bar and two front quarters and a new tyre. RAC told us we should have gone straight to them when it wasnt right in the first place.

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This is werid,

But it is a dodgey paint job because, they must of used 2pack paint like arcryclic(spell?) paint i'ved noticed this when i had my Pulsar SSS it had Japanese paint but when i went to touch it up etc i would get the result that you have until i got speical paint from oversea's. Japanese cars used better paint job not the 2pack shit we use here.

man im gonna post up some paint work i have done in my clean shed,

im not qualified but just learnt by my self, my work would embarass the half retarted apprentice that did that work jesus ill never go to a crash shop i gotta a welder an expensive spray gun and get paint at trade price couple of hammers ill do all my body work for ever

take the shop that did that abortion of work to the cleaners its just bullcrap how they take people for a ride man im pissed of

Hope you get it sorted chief

This is werid,

                      But it is a dodgey paint job because, they must of used 2pack paint like arcryclic(spell?) paint i'ved noticed this when i had my Pulsar SSS it had Japanese paint but when i went to touch it up etc i would get the result that you have until i got speical paint from oversea's.  Japanese cars used better paint job not the 2pack shit we use here.

the paint we have here is fine as long as the probr stuff is used.

Problem is crash shops use cheap shit so that the profits are up.

I occasionaly buy paint and for base coat 2pak group 4 pay approx 180 per liter the stuff they use is prob about 80 bucks home brand crap

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
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    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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