Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Coupe Base Model Or Premium

bombardier

By bombardier,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

bombardier Newbie

bombardier

Posted
Posted

Hi all, new here.

Just started looking at getting one of these. Still a bit confused about all the options available.

I was trying to decide whether to get a base model or spend the extra money and get the Premium.

Seems to me you don't much more in the Premium.

Is there anything in the Premium that you can't just put in yourself later?

Reason I ask is even I get the Premium I'll probably update a lot of the gear anyway.

(CD, stereo, screen, TV tuner, Navigation)

Obviously the leather seats and aircon are two that would be be difficult to change but I don't care about either.

Does anyone a full list of options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441990-v35-coupe-base-model-or-premium/
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

Post this in the V series area , will get more hits there.

Personally the audio needs doing in these anyway. It's a hand grenade that will take out the ac when it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...