Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-T S2 Fuel Pump Problem

lareee

By lareee,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

lareee Rookie

lareee

Posted
Posted

Hi!

I'm having issues with my fuel pump. The pump does not prime when turning the ignition on. Pump and relay are ok. Relay harness is getting solid +12V all the time.
I'm really confused with all the FPCM and ECU related stuff. How is the system designed to work? What kind of readings am i supposed to get from the ECU pin 18? Now I'm getting constant +12V when ignition is on...
Only way i'm getting the pump to prime is by grounding the black/pink wire from relay to ECU pin 18. This way I can get the car started, but it dies immediately after I take the wire off from the grounding point.
It is hard to try to solve this problem, because I have no idea how the system is supposed to work... :confused:
Are there any relays or fuses apart from the ones in the boot that should be checked?
What is there to do? Is hardwiring the pump going to be a solution?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
-Lars
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442702-r33-gts-t-s2-fuel-pump-problem/
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted
Hi!

I'm having issues with my fuel pump. The pump does not prime when turning the ignition on. Pump and relay are ok. Relay harness is getting solid +12V all the time.

I'm really confused with all the FPCM and ECU related stuff. How is the system designed to work? What kind of readings am i supposed to get from the ECU pin 18? Now I'm getting constant +12V when ignition is on...

Only way i'm getting the pump to prime is by grounding the black/pink wire from relay to ECU pin 18. This way I can get the car started, but it dies immediately after I take the wire off from the grounding point.

It is hard to try to solve this problem, because I have no idea how the system is supposed to work... :confused:

Are there any relays or fuses apart from the ones in the boot that should be checked?

What is there to do? Is hardwiring the pump going to be a solution?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

-Lars

Unplug the harness going into the fuel lump in your boot and test it with a multimeter. When you click the accessories on one of the pins should get power for the first few seconds ... If it's getting power means your pump or wiring in the petrol tank are screwed.

Let us know how you go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...