Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOR SALE OR SWAPS. R32 gtr currently making 304kw at the wheels on high boost (19 psi, has 4 different boost settings).

Car was Tuned by Trojan Motorsports. I have a folder with a timeline and receipts for most of the things that have been done to this car since it was imported. The engine has been rebuilt roughly 40,000km's ago, I have only found the receipts for the CP pistons, conrod bearings, ARP rod bolts, cometic head gasket, Genuine water pump, accessory belts, new timing belt tensioner and idler bearings there may be more in the folder, the head was also recoed. All heater hoses replaced with silicone hoses about 10,000km's ago. Motor is very healthy and has never given me any problems, this car has been super reliable and never let me down.

MODS: HKS GT-SS twin turbos
Sard 800cc injectors
Tomei fuel pump
Tomei adjustable FPR
Tomei adjustable cam gears
Apexi Power FC
Apexi boost controller
Greddy 115mm intercooler
Greddy polished alloy piping kit (from pod filters to intake manifold)
Greddy timing belt
Greddy clear timing gear cover
Trust Airinx pod filters
Genuine Bosch z32 AFM's
Splitfire coilpacks
HPI alloy radiator
Autech catch can
HSD coilovers
Driftworks hicas eliminator kit
front and rear camber arms
DBA T3 4000 series club spec slotted rotors front and rear
Project Mu front pads
QFM A1RM rear pads
new Genuine water pump
new accessory belts
new timing belt tensioner and idler bearings
Trojan motorsports did a major service on the car before it was tuned. I also just had the two front drive shafts rebuilt because i had some busted cv boots all fluids have been replaced in the last 5000km's engine oil has been replaced every 4-6000km's Im sure I have forgotten some things...

Wheels: Work Emotion XD9's bronze 18x10+18 all round with near new federal 595 RSR's (265 35 18) about 80% tread. blue work wheel nuts as well with lock nuts and key.. Also come with a set of Standard GTR wheels with roadworthy tires and some boxes with alot of the standard parts that have been removed (intercooler/piping radiator etc..) There is also a mod plate for the turbos!!

THE BAD!!
A tie rod end needs replacing also a front right inner ball joint is busted. also need a wheel allignment. as a result the steering feels a little weird. Brakes are a bit squeeky when cold.

Location: Canberra
Price is $24,000 negotiable.
OR SWAPS...I am in need of a tow car and trailer so if you have either of these, or both send me a pm and we can discuss a swap with or without cash adjustment depending on the dealeo. just send me a PM with what you have and we can go from there.
It will be much easier to reach me on my phone, but txt message is the best because i cannot answer my phone at work or at CIT. PH: 0403 645 640
having troubles uploading photos, can txt a few upon request

Edited by Stoolz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443857-r32-gtr-for-sale-24000-neg-canberra/
Share on other sites

Sorry! forgot to add that,

it has a Z sport 320km/h cluster with 236,xxxkm on it, because this is not the standard cluster i cannot be sure how many k's are on the chassis.
its a 1989 model,
thanks for telling me about the photos i will try to figure it out. if you want photos, i can txt some to you.

cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...