Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As for steering geometry the effect of spacers is exactly the same as getting the "right" offset with no spacers.

The correct offset is more than having the wheels flush. Its about where a line drawn through the center of the tyre would intersect with a lne drawn though the centre of the ball joints. Moving the tyre inboard or outboard without using the correct offset moves that intercection point further apart ot closer together, further changing the scrub radius. Using a spacer will not correct the incorrect offset UNLESS it brings the incorrect offset being used closer to the original scrub radius.

The pulling affect is called bump steer.

would the scrub radius be pacified by adjusting the camber angle ?

not necessarily the standard camber setting !! , but a re-calculated angle to account for the offset change / or indeed lowering of the vehicle - different size tyres are said to contribute to the scrub effect .

I now run 25mm spacers on the front of my RSV4 S1 ET43 8.5" - and it was the best thing i did so far .....

Cured my horrible understeer .. and improved the look

I have adjustable suspension all round and I am low , BUT running standard caster / camber / toe in/out measurements .

However on uneven roads it dose tend to wander off .

So now i am wondering If another angle for the caster , other than standard , is worth a try ( $130 bucks a shot in UK !! ) this i would think may also include toe angle ? and may help with the original questions issue

Well i spent hours taking the spacers off yesterday as the previous owner must have used locktite to put the nuts on.

Drove it this morning with no spacers and it still pulled when on uneven roads, spoken to the located mechanic and he is going to ave a look next week, i need new tyres anyway so gonna get new tryes and a wheel alignment saturday and go from there, eveeryhitng under the car seems ok, but im not a mechanic so im not 100% sure, i have new sway bar links and sway bar and sway bar rubbers but bushings etc at 150k old so could be anything. least i know its not the spcaers, and i can put them back on and try a few other things i guess

The correct offset is more than having the wheels flush. Its about where a line drawn through the center of the tyre would intersect with a lne drawn though the centre of the ball joints. Moving the tyre inboard or outboard without using the correct offset moves that intercection point further apart ot closer together, further changing the scrub radius. Using a spacer will not correct the incorrect offset UNLESS it brings the incorrect offset being used closer to the original scrub radius.

The amount of offset is irrelevant. The act of moving the wheel (and tyre) out from the original, stock position changes the geometry and while it may be done mainly for appearance it also has the effect of increasing the track. Whether this is achieved by wheels with a different offset or with spacers the result is exactly the same. In my experience this change has no bad effect on steering or handling. In Ted's case he reports an improvement in that he has reduced understeer.

would the scrub radius be pacified by adjusting the camber angle ?

I have adjustable suspension all round and I am low , BUT running standard caster / camber / toe in/out measurements .

However on uneven roads it dose tend to wander off .

So now i am wondering If another angle for the caster , other than standard , is worth a try ( $130 bucks a shot in UK !! ) this i would think may also include toe angle ? and may help with the original questions issue

Yes a little negative camber (1 to 1.5 deg for the street or rather more... 3 deg for the track) will help. More castor (6 -7 deg ) will help with straight line stability particularly at speed. You will need adjustable castor arms to achieve the latter but you can achieve a small increase in negative camber with adjustable bushes. In either case you will then have to correct toe-in.

  • Like 1

So i was lucky enough to get my mechanic to ahve a look at my car today, Jon from Driven Motorsport in SA is amazing and knows his stuff and highly reccomend them to anyone in SA.

As i said in previous post spacers, didnt seem to be the issue.

Mechanic did a full check front and back, seems that previous owner cut the rear springs so rear is very soft, the rear sub frame bushes in the rear, are fine, but not the best and have a bit of movement, and could do with replacing.

so after getting new tyres this week will see how it goes =)

Well I have had our Stagea for 6 years now and bought the car with Tein suspension , Rays Volts 18x8 + 32 with 235x40`s , 25mm spacers all around , 1 1/4 degrees camber front and back , lowered 40mm as well and have no issues . However it depends on many variables and in the end , who sets up the suspension.

Edited by coparts41

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...