Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a RB25DET Series 2 in my USDM 240sx S13. The motor has 30k on it and is healthy. I right now have the stock SMIC, but within about 2-3 weeks I am going to be putting on a Pro-Charger FMIC that will be able to support up to 800HP. My question is I have heard that the stock turbo can handle more boost if it has low miles on it and is healthy. I know it has a ceramic wheel and is held on the shaft by a strong glue and over time with high amounts of boost will break apart and shoot the turbine wheel out the exhaust. I am running 10psi right now, but plan on taking it up to 15psi once I get the FMIC on there. Do you guys think I will be safe with the turbo only having 30,000 miles on it?

How long do you think the turbo will last?

I will have a T3/T04e .63ar on it by next summer, so I am not going to be running the stock turbo for that much longer.

Let me know,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44417-sii-rb25det-turbo/
Share on other sites

the stock turbo runs out of efficiency at 10-12 psi so there is no point.. and there are plenty of people with experience that shows that the stock turbo wont last long if your boost it higher than 12 psi..

it will last even less with the stock cooler, once u add the fmic it will be safer to run that boost and it will make more power. (lower pressure drop)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44417-sii-rb25det-turbo/#findComment-908314
Share on other sites

the stock turbo runs out of efficiency at 10-12 psi  so there is no point.. and there are plenty of people with experience that shows that the stock turbo wont last long if your boost it higher than 12 psi..

it will last even less with the stock cooler, once u add the fmic it will be safer to run that boost and it will make more power. (lower pressure drop)

From what I have been told it is pretty much the same turbo specs as the S15 T28, added on the T3 flang, ceramic wheel, and different make.

I know the T28 are found to go up around 17psi and still be efficeint.

What is limiting the RB25 turbo to only 12psi?

So by adding on the FMIC you think it will be a dramatic power change from the stock SMIC?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44417-sii-rb25det-turbo/#findComment-908342
Share on other sites

Before you crank up the boost beyond 12 PSI You should look into some kinda fuel controller to get maximun perfromance from the increase boost. I ran my SII Motor at 12 PSI stock IC and no Managment without any problems. I am sure it would have made more power with some fuel taken out up top. I now have a 56 Trim T3/T4 on the car and I am still running stock SMIC and stock ECU. At 9 psi the car will hit boost cut every so often. I have an FMIC + PFC on it's way so I can start to make some real power.

Anywho.....Run 10-12 PSI and you will be fine. Anymore boost then that and you are starting to ask for trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44417-sii-rb25det-turbo/#findComment-908347
Share on other sites

From what I have been told it is pretty much the same turbo specs as the S15 T28, added on the T3 flang, ceramic wheel, and different make.

I know the T28 are found to go up around 17psi and still be efficeint.

What is limiting the RB25 turbo to only 12psi?

So by adding on the FMIC you think it will be a dramatic power change from the stock SMIC?

The RB25DET turbos have a ceramic-type exhaust wheel, and as far as I understand at high speeds/temps they can break off and head off for more carnage - so its not just efficiency thats not going to be ideal.

But on efficiency, as far as I understand a turbo's efficiency is measured on turbine rpm vs. air type scale - so maybe an RB25DET demands in the same area of turbine rpm from the turbine for 12psi as an SR20DET does to be pressurised to 17psi, being a bigger motor and all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44417-sii-rb25det-turbo/#findComment-908354
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...