Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs Vic Melbourne: 2001 Nm35 Stagea.

LNG 33S
 Share

Recommended Posts

LNG 33S Collaborator

LNG 33S

Posted
Posted


Pearl White 2001 NM35 Nissan Stagea. Great car, selling because we no longer need two cars. Scratch/dent in rear drivers side door just below door handle.
Things I have done; Nismo S-Tune suspension all round, 350Z brembo brakes (front only) and wheels (track, sprayed with black plasti-dip) Some gutter rash. E-bay DVD, Navi, Radio, Bluetooth unit mounted below heater controls. Factory steering wheel controls with after-market cruise control and working stereo controls.
HICAS not opperational. Think steering angle sensor is not right for car.
SRS seat mod done to turn off SRS light.
Std Equ; Black leather interior in great condition, dual elec sunroof, heated elec seats.
Factory (dealer) fitted options. Alarm(not immoboliser), reverse swing down mirrors.
Will come with two keyfob remotes and one service key.
I am second Australian owner, have Japanese manuals and service records. I have serviced the car myself every 5,000k with fully synthetic oils(Motul then later, Elf) and completed a 100,000km major service included changing all fluids (coolant, diff, gearbox, PS, 4WD, brake), drive belts. Tyres done 25,000km, still heaps of tread.
Been a fantastic car and I really don't want to sell, but needs to go. Please email or ring me to organise inspection either at Sunbury, or Ashburton. Weekends at Ashburton or weekdays at Sunbury. Thanks. Chris
[email protected] 0431 705 073

post-56698-0-94590800-1402282688_thumb.jpg
post-56698-0-94111100-1402282813_thumb.jpg
post-56698-0-39524400-1402283079_thumb.jpg
post-56698-0-60348600-1402283247_thumb.jpg
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444192-fs-vic-melbourne-2001-nm35-stagea/
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...