Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls just wondering what rims people have on the r33 and what the biggest size I can go would be without rolling the gaurds or using flares, obviously I wanna run 18 inch rims but am unsure of how wide I can go before I have to roll the gaurds. im after wider wheels on the rear than the front but not to much different that it looks noticibly shit any advice??

I was looking at konig milligram rims 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear or same rim but 18x9.5 front and 18x10 rear would these be fine on the 33 and will they fill the gaurds out nicely?? another thing so you have all details is that the car will be standard ride hight and if I lower it it will only be between 7-12mm or there abouts. also what cmber and caster would be good for this sort of setup.

if these rims wont be a good setup for the r33 what do you guys suggest?? post rim brand and size and offset if you could so I can have a idea of what fits and what to look for cheers peeps.

EDT: also I want deepdish rear but not front but want the same rim design front and rear is this possible?

Edited by scithe93
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445955-rim-sizes-for-r33-gts/
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/page-154

there is tonnes of info in there. If you roll your guards and run camber arms you can go wider. If not prob stick around 9 +30 for the front and 9.5 +30 or 10+40 for the rears.

You prob wanna research it as good wheels and offset makes or breaks a car

i would be buying these weds if i were u. Might need 235 or 225 for the front but the rest should fit. courier would be a 100 bux

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/445848-various-items-sa-70-rims-nardi-wheel-willans-harness-hkb-boss/

cheers man yours looks nice, yeah didn't really wanna roll gaurds or anything just yet just wanted some 18s I could jst drop straight on coz 17's just don't fill the wheel arch properly lol eah I looked at all the forums on here but it just confused me more coz everyone was running different offsets ect so this will be good for a standard ride hight yeah

will I be able to pull off 9.5 for fronts with 10 rears or is 9 the max for fronts wihout mods

Edited by scithe93

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...