Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've had some issues starting the car and after replacing the cas I checked the timing and the car runs the best when the timing mark is way past the marks to the right.

The orange 0degree mark is also in between the white marks. I thought it was supposed to be at the end?

post-32397-0-07525200-1406371651_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446085-timing-question-is-it-way-out/
Share on other sites

Quite often, using the wire loop can give a reading twice the actual reading. Best results are obtained by going "old school" and using a plug lead inserted between #1 coil and the spark plug.

I'll have to give it a shot - it was running well this morning and I managed to adjust the timing so the mark was near the orange marking - which by counting the markings from left to right - I think is 20degrees - so it should be ok.

Turned the car off and tried to restart with no luck, and I cannot get it started again!

if that pic was taken with a timing light giving the illumination it looks way past the final mark which is wrong.

the most important thing is use a spark plug lead to extend the #1 (front of motor) coil pack onto the plug, and clip the timing light on there. Don't use the loop at the back of the engine it will give you bad readings.

Make sure your idle is close to 650RPM, as long as it's not above 1000RPM you should be close enough. Also, pull the bottom? plug off the throttle body and the ECU will go into fixed-timing mode so you can set the timing. If you skip this step the ECU actually varies the ignition timing to control the idle RPM which makes it impossible to set properly.

The orange mark is 0 degrees. there may be one white marker at -5, I can't remember. But you will have a series of white marks for 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 etc. 15 degrees will be the 3rd white mark to the right of the orange mark. the engine cover should have a mark on it at the 1 to 2 o'clock region looking from front of motor (ie "through" the radiator looking at the crank).

kinks - I've been using an inductive timing light, off the loop wire and also tried on the coil pack wire, with no difference. I guess inline might be the way to go as maybe it's showing a false light therefore indicating that timing is way off?????

The strange part about the markings is I have (w=white, o=orange)

w w w w o w w

Not the supposedly standard o w w w w w w

Hardest part is trying to figure out how to get it started again to even start looking at the timing!

Spark is good, fuel is in the rail, injectors are ticking/firing but still no start!

Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.

So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!

Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.

So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...