Jump to content
SAU Community

My dyno printout - Sat 26th (Cyrus put yours in please)


Recommended Posts

woa.. thats all over the shop. Sorry to say - almost n/a figures :) very linear there?

sir31 got 88rwkw from ye olde SOHC RB30E .. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...10913.0;id=1327 same dyno a few weeks ago..

that linkonly work's if u a reg member to the site..........try this one..........

http://www.boostcruising.com/members/showi....php?dbpic=1752

will i sick of the n/a i brought a RB20DET on the weekend

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the gain cyrus achieved with the exhaust just proves how much a decent exhaust can give your car.

neil dont worry man, theres always a faster car :D in stock form i pulled 168kw on that dyno :)

yer i couldnt make it, woulda liked to go but i was stuck under a 180sx all weekend

Anyway guys....here is my chart from Saturday at AllStar with the Zed Club.

See if you can spot where the A/F ratio was lean enough to make the car ping, retard timing and bugger up the rest of my run :)

Anyway the power figures are low...apparently this can be confirmed by most people that use the Allstar dyno....but as everyone knows they're a tuning tool, not just for horsepower queens :D I did manage 97Kw on the first run...but as mentioned before, it started to retard quite badly.

I've adjusted my AFRs so the Mercury Motorsport weekend should be better for comparison reasons.

I was told not a bad effort considering I've still got the N/A exhaust fitted...hmmm back-pressure!

GEDAY MATE

YOUR A/RS ARE VERY LEAN MATE.

I WOULD TAKE CARE UNTIL YOU SORT THEM

I HAVE SEEN MELTED PISTONS IN RB25s FROM A/Rs LIKE THAT

BY LOOKING AT THE CHART - YOU ARE DEFINITELY GETTING KNOCK RETARD .

REGARDS

BILLY

GEDAY MATE

YOUR A/RS ARE VERY LEAN MATE.

I WOULD TAKE CARE UNTIL YOU SORT THEM

I HAVE SEEN MELTED PISTONS IN RB25s FROM A/Rs LIKE THAT

BY LOOKING AT THE CHART - YOU ARE DEFINITELY GETTING KNOCK RETARD .

REGARDS

BILLY

So ya like allcaps eh Billy?

Anyway did a bit of searching today, managed to find a way to finally connect the igniton harness up without killing the coils....about time the timing had something more technical done to it as opposed to the old chesnut of turning the CAS :P

Also found a place that stocks a wideband O2 sensor that connects up to the e-manage for data logging.....will also help things a bit.

Or maybe I'll just piss the engine off and throw a nice RB26 in :P

Yep hungry6…I’ve been thinking about that lonely engine and how it would be much happier sitting in my engine bay :D

Fro - A GTR engine would improve lots of things…..except your sisters patience with me!

So on that dyno he got an extra 15rwkw just with adding a cat back exhaust?

Yeap 101rwkw before with stock exhaust 116rwkw with Beau's HKS Super Dragger Cat Back zaust. :D

I'm back, went to morton island (sp?) got home last night, I have both printouts and will scan and post tomorrow when I am at work, catching up on some sleep after doing more exercise than I did in the past 3 years in 3 days, I'm feeling quiet :throwup: atm, so yeah some of those Zed cars where just SEX ON WHEELS! OMG The first guy to run, pulled 212rwkw, and that was on his "low" boost setting, he said he was going to do some tweaking and hope for 230rwkw!!! Awesome blokes, awesome cars, Thanks for the invite too!

Abo bob, nah the auto can work with the harness it's the fact that the constant load on the coils makes them fry...just like the RX-8 coils.

If the holding voltage can be stopped..and only the peak firing signal sent..then the coils work fine. For some reason the e-manage sends *hypothetically* 2V continuous...then a 5V peak on firing signal...then back to 2V etc etc...it's this 2V holding voltage that keeps the coils energized and makes them cook after a little bit of time....if they went back down to 0V between firing then there would be no problem.

Just going to hook up a circuit in series with the signal wires to only let through the peak voltage...I'll let you know how it goes. And I only just sold the harness a month or so back :D

Anyway did a bit of searching today, managed to find a way to finally connect the igniton harness up without killing the coils....about time the timing had something more technical done to it as opposed to the old chesnut of turning the CAS  

Also found a place that stocks a wideband O2 sensor that connects up to the e-manage for data logging.....will also help things a bit.

that bit dan...not the rb26 bit....

will the o2 sensor show extra data an your laptop tp help u tune it? and the other thing about the coils, if youd done that in the first place would you have needed new coils?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...