Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys, ive attached a video of the first start up after changing a few things including plenum and fuel. Any ideas? It needs a tune badly but im thinking the timing is off? Ive been working on it for months. Oil pressure seems fine, the relocated oil filter is getting hot meaning oil flow. Would love to hear your thoughts

Sorry mate, meant fuel system, eg 040 and re-did the wiring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPP2xh8lfjc&list=UUy6q31N1lw8UBpJ0XDcDI9w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2gYtPeJfI&list=UUy6q31N1lw8UBpJ0XDcDI9w

Its a loud tick. Not a miss a tick, similar to tappet noise or similar.

Havent pressure tested the plenum and pipework no, i do know thats something i need to do. Was more focused on the tick to be honest!

Edited by Strick.

Same injectors however had them serviced and flow tested. Needed to lengthen the wiring when putting on the plenum too.

The tuner will be pressure testing it on Saturday when its getting tuned, just wanted some ideas to ease my mind a bit!

It must be oil delivery. Can anyone confirm this is right for my oil filter relocation and cooler

block to sandwich plate outer, cooler in, cooler out, filter relocation plate inner, filter relocation plate outer, back to block sandwich plate inner

Pulled the cooler lines off, plenty of oil, pulled the oil filter off, lack of oil! filled with oil then it started to rain so didnt turn it over again. Have i got my lines wrong! ive done it as what ive read and the arrows on the plates or would this mean the oil pump

Edited by Strick.

Yep, had the lines to the filter relocation around the wrong way.....

Ran for about 10 minutes like this before i turned it off......

Wonder how much damage ive done...

sucks to be me!

So lucky me engine is seized. Woulnt start this morning, then after trying to start it had the seized clunk sound.

Upon taking out the spark plugs, the thread on number 6 (closest to the firewall) has had a big hit, number 4 has had a hit and number 1 the plug electrode has been pushed in.

Guessing its the valves hitting them? So thrown valves or something! Would i get away with a top end rebuild only?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...