Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the process of getting my car running 100% before starting to tune/track it. The head gasket has just been replaced with everything cleaned out very well.

Car is an R33 GTS-T Series 2 manual with the standard ECU plugged back in (also have Z32 and RB20 Nistuned ECUs for it). Has full 3/3.5" exhaust, FMIC, fuel pump with everything else standard (including fuel rail, injectors and FPR).

Base timing set to 15 degrees correctly and I have it idling at 800rpm in base timing mode (ConZult). I've installed a wideband (LC-2) and have been monitoring AFRs and have found after startup while warming it has an AFR of about 5. When the car is well and truly up to temp the AFR sits on about 7 varying slightly but no higher than 8.0. When I hit the throttle revving to 2.5/3k it approaches closer to 14.7.

I assume the car shouldn't be idling this rich? But I'm not sure what is causing it - the standard O2 sensor could be dead but would the ECU have enough correction to run it this rich based on O2 feedback?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448267-afr-at-idle/
Share on other sites

The LC-2 doesn't have any air calibration like the LC-1 did. It supposedly does it itself when you first power it. I thought it was the problem initially myself but the fact it reads 14.7 with higher revs and then maxes out on deceleration (no fuel) have me thinking it isn't. Plus the car is definitely running rich based on exhaust smell/residue on bar (car has a cat still). The sensor is brand new, 30 minutes of use and correctly positioned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448267-afr-at-idle/#findComment-7382515
Share on other sites

Just looked into the calibration some more and it can be redone so I'll give that a shot and see how it goes. Failing that, is there some way of knowing for sure when the car is in closed loop or not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448267-afr-at-idle/#findComment-7382517
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...