Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EOI on my awesome (brand new in boxes) S13P Meisters. Had these specially ordered in 2012 for a project that has probably fallen over :( They have been kept in the original boxes in my wife's sewing room (which she has been really happy about), never mounted or had tyres fitted.

18x11+18 front

18x13+6 rear

Big brake clearance all round

Matt bronze centers, with annodized bronze barrels (was extra cost to make) with black fixings.

Also available are genuine Work nuts, locking nuts and key (new in packet) in red.

I also have some used Pirelli P-Zero Rosso tyres. 285/35/R18 97W. x 2 and also Michellin Porsche Cup tyres (semi slicks) 295/30/ZR18 94Y x2 which I bought to fit to the rims for rolling and size fitment purposes. All 4 tyres are very legal. Can include these in a sale for minimal cost to someone local only as I think it would not be cost effective for shipping seeing as they are not fitted.

Having said that, I could have them fitted for the right buyer interstate, however I will not be fitting them before purchase because then the rims become no longer brand new! (and would no longer fit in their original boxes!)

Front

post-33729-0-09346100-1413253746_thumb.jpg

Rear

post-33729-0-46034900-1413253779_thumb.jpg

Rear

post-33729-0-54942300-1413253809_thumb.jpg

Front

post-33729-0-09357700-1413253843_thumb.jpg

Rear

post-33729-0-94164000-1413253865_thumb.jpg

Rear

post-33729-0-62866000-1413253867_thumb.jpg

Front

post-33729-0-63644300-1413253912_thumb.jpg

And yes that IS a 1+L coke bottle ;)

Wheels: $3200

Nuts: $200

Rubbers x 4: $400

PM me for package deal.

Possibly open to offers with cash either way (but probably my way, unless you have something fricking awesome). Only after Jap stuff, staggered, 18 or 19x9 to 9.5 +25 to 35ish fronts, and 18or 19 x 10.5 +40ish. Oh and in great condition.

Not in a hurry to sell so no low ballers. If they don't sell I'll make an awesome bar table.

Thanks!

Edited by MagicMikeZ32
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449675-uber-massive-meisters-brisbane/
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention Work nissan hub rings included, and the bolt pattern is 5x114.3 :)

And reasonable offers considered. Forgot to put ono after my prices

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...